Rachel Roddy presents a recipe for chicken with a sweet and sour lemon and tarragon sauce, drawing inspiration from Anna del Conte and the 17th-century chef Bartolomeo Stefani. This dish features poached chicken breasts served in a tangy sauce made with wine, sugar, vinegar, olive oil, and lemon, perfect for a hot day.
Historical Inspiration
Anna del Conte, now 100 and living in Dorset, adapted this recipe from Bartolomeo Stefani, chef to Prince Ottavio Gonzaga of Mantua. Stefani's 1662 manual, L'arte di Ben Cucinare, marked a shift from heavily spiced medieval dishes to lighter flavors with herbs, citrus, and flowers. The original recipe called for capon, but Roddy uses chicken breasts, and she substitutes red-wine vinegar for balsamic to create a lighter emulsion.
Recipe Details
Serves 4. Ingredients: 4 large skinless chicken breasts, 375ml white wine, 300ml light vegetable stock, 3 tbsp soft brown sugar, grated zest and 2 tbsp juice of 1 large unwaxed lemon, 1 handful fresh tarragon leaves, 3 tbsp balsamic or red-wine vinegar, 75ml olive oil, salt, and pepper.
Preparation Steps
Poach the chicken breasts in 300ml wine and stock over low-medium heat for 12 minutes, then cover and rest for 3 minutes. Wrap in foil and rest 5 minutes. In a small pan, warm sugar and remaining wine until dissolved, then add lemon zest, juice, and tarragon; cool. In a bowl, whisk vinegar and olive oil into an emulsion; season. Slice chicken into 1cm-thick slices, arrange on a plate, spoon over dressing, and let sit at least 30 minutes before serving at room temperature.
Serving Suggestions
Accompanied by boiled or braised courgettes, new potatoes, or both, with soft bread to soak up the sauce. According to Roddy, the dish improves if left to marinate for a few hours, allowing the flavors to meld.
