For many in the UK, Brazilian cuisine conjures images of hearty feijoada stews, cheesy pão de queijo bread, or deep-fried coxinha snacks. However, tasting the food of acclaimed chef Rafael Cagali offers a profound and delicious re-education. The softly-spoken culinary mastermind behind the two-Michelin-starred Da Terra in Bethnal Green is on a mission to break down culinary borders, firmly requesting that you do not simply call his cooking 'Brazilian'.
A Global Culinary Education
Born in São Paulo to a Brazilian-Italian family, Cagali's early life revolved around his family's 'por quilo' restaurant, a buffet-style eatery where payment is based on the weight of your plate. After initially studying economics, a move to London to learn English changed his trajectory. A part-time kitchen job sparked a passion, leading him on an impressive culinary tour.
His training included formative stints on Italy's Lake Garda, in Spain's Basque Country, and under Quique Dacosta at his triple-Michelin-starred restaurant in Dénia. In 2012, Cagali returned to England, working at Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck. It was here he met his business and life partner, Charlie Lee. After further honing his craft with Simon Rogan of L'Enclume, Cagali seized the chance to launch his own venture.
The Da Terra Phenomenon
In 2019, Da Terra opened within the Baroque walls of Bethnal Green's Town Hall. Its impact was immediate and remarkable. The restaurant earned its first Michelin star within months, followed by a prestigious second star in 2021. It has since cemented its place as one of the UK's top dining destinations, garnering widespread critical acclaim.
Cagali, however, wears his accolades lightly. He actively resists the label of 'fusion' food, a term he feels is reductive. "My background is very international in a way," he explains. "I was born and raised in Brazil, but Brazil is also a country with so much multicultural influence." This philosophy is palpable on the plate at Da Terra.
The menu is a deft, playful journey that evades easy categorisation. A snack of cassava and octopus evokes Mediterranean memories. Red mullet rests in a classic Andalusian ajo blanco soup. A quail course seamlessly bridges English game and Italian tortellini in brodo. Brazil announces itself most explicitly in the moqueca, a breathtakingly refined version of the traditional fish stew, and in the signature 'Romeo and Juliet' dessert—an Elizabethan ruff of aerated goat's cheese and distinctly Brazilian guava.
Expanding to the Coast: Maré in Hove
Cagali's culinary vision has now expanded beyond London with the opening of Maré in Hove earlier this year. Positioned as the less formal sibling to Da Terra, Maré brings his genre-defying cooking to Brighton's vibrant food scene. In partnership with head chef Ewan Waller, Cagali aims to create a space that complements the area's independent spirit.
"We want to have the people talk about it. It's important that the locals enjoy it too, because they're the ones that are going to keep coming back," Cagali states, emphasising his desire to build longevity and contribute to the local community.
Highlights at Maré include a theatrical 'Build Your Own Taco' dish featuring braised lamb and velvety mole, and a stunning 'surf and turf' of picanha steak—a cut synonymous with Brazilian churrasco—served with lobster rice studded with ox tongue.
Cooking Without Borders
For Cagali, the essence of Brazilian cooking is not about rigidly representing a national cuisine. After reflecting on Brazil's vast size, cultural influences, and ingredient-driven ethos, he concludes it is about "adapting to where you are, and then adding to the food scene."
This ethos is the cornerstone of his success. As Charlie Lee notes, "There's no ego, just curiosity and commitment to making the guest experience unforgettable. We built a restaurant culture that honours both excellence and humanity."
Ultimately, thousands of miles from São Paulo's bustle, Rafael Cagali is, perhaps ironically, embodying a truly Brazilian culinary spirit: one of adaptation, integration, and joyful, rigorous innovation. Just don't expect him to agree with the label.
