The youthful Dutch city of Utrecht has a surprising secret: floating down a former motorway on a boat is a rite of passage. Our guide Jitte explained that the Catharijnesingel canal, now a serene waterway, was once a medieval moat before being filled with cement in 1971 to become a motorway. Reopened in 2020, the restored canal is part of Utrecht's green transformation, earning it a spot on Lonely Planet's Best in Travel for 2026. With more bikes than residents and abundant vegan food, Utrecht is an eco-conscious utopia free from mass tourism.
Plant-Based Delights
Traditional Dutch cuisine like broodje kaas, bitterballen, and raw herring hardly scream vegan. But Utrecht's food scene has evolved. Le Jardin, in a striking blue building on Mariaplaats, uses local suppliers and grows its own produce, offering seasonal dishes like pointed cabbage with passion fruit puree. BROEI creates a relaxed vibe with rustic benches and art-covered walls, serving a light vegan bread and butter pudding. Life's a Peach is a must-visit for gluten-free focaccias and sweet treats; its vegan 'nduja focaccia substitutes sausage with a spicy lentil and sun-dried tomato paste. The cafe's plant-based pastel de nata is legendary.
For a slower pace, Kasivo offers seasonal plant-forward dishes with minimalist design. Lion's mane mushroom baked on charcoal with roasted seaweed and orca beans is a creative meat alternative. To explore Utrecht's vegan scene, join V For Food (€69.50 for 3.5 hours, seven bites, two drinks). Stops include Snackbar Las Vegas for vegan bitterballen, Kluts bakery for salted caramel cookies, and FLFL for fresh falafel wraps with a view of the Dom Tower.
This culinary journey dispels the myth that plant-based food is boring. The variety of textures and flavors proves vegan cuisine can be intentional and exciting. After two days, I'm confidently on the plant-based train.
Slow Travel
Utrecht makes sustainable travel easy. Take a Eurostar from London to Rotterdam, then a Dutch Railways train to Utrecht in just over four hours. Rent a bike to explore cobbled streets and spot statues of Miffy, the beloved character created by Dick Bruna. Visit the Centraal Museum for a recreation of Bruna's studio. Wander the Neude Library, a former post office, and see the 'Spectacle of Books' exhibition featuring unpublished works.
A Blend of Old and New
Utrecht's creative energy comes from its 39,000 students at Utrecht University, injecting youth into medieval streets. Unlike many Dutch cities, Utrecht was largely unscathed by World War II, preserving historic architecture. Medieval cellars along canals have been transformed into yoga studios, restaurants, and cafes. The Conscious Hotel, my 'eco-sexy' accommodation, was once a monastery, orphanage, and music venue hosting Prince and Nirvana. Recycled furniture, water-saving showers, and solar panels make for a sustainable stay (from £98 per night).
When I confessed to breaking my two-day vegan streak for a pain au chocolat, the waitress smiled and said all breakfast food is vegan. I may not be fully vegan since returning, but I eat plant-based whenever possible. Thanks, Utrecht—I'm converted.
