The Plimsoll, an unassuming corner pub in Finsbury Park, has been crowned London's best gastropub by OpenTable, earning the 'gastropub of the year' title for 2026. The booking platform also ranked it among the capital's most 'iconic' restaurants, and its Dexter burger has become a social media sensation. With dining reservations solid even midweek, the hype is undeniable. But does the food live up to the reputation? Our reviewer went to find out.
A Pub with a Country Feel
Stepping into The Plimsoll, the rustic wooden decor and ye olde worlde charm evoke a country pub rather than a typical London boozer. The dining area is packed, with white candles dripping and flickering, creating a warm, ambient glow. On the night of the visit, all three neighboring tables were happily tucking into the famous Dexter burgers (£14), which feature textured Irish Dexter patties topped with egg, cheese, and a secret sauce in a soft brioche bun. While they didn't look particularly large, the appeal was evident.
The menu is small but creative. For £6, diners can choose Toulouse sausage with mustard (sold out at the time of the visit) or bread boquerones with goat's cheese. Mains include calamari with sweet chilli (£16), fried lamb with French beans and guindillas (£16), girolle risotto (£18), or mussels with Iberico broth and parsley (£18). The tapas-style approach encourages sharing.
Starters That Impress
Our reviewer ordered fried potatoes with aioli (£7), curried carrots with ricotta (£12), and pork collar with marinated aubergine (£20). The potatoes arrived first, perfectly golden and crisp at the edges, with no sogginess despite being bathed in olive oil. The aioli was a standout, with just the right amount of garlic, elevating the dish to near perfection.
The curried carrots, served cold, had a sweet, almost raisin-like sauce and firm al dente bite. However, the mushy ricotta added a sickly sweetness to an already sweet dish, lacking the crisp savouriness needed to balance it. The reviewer noted that while the concept felt old-fashioned, the texture of the carrots was preferable to overboiled softness.
A Show-Stopping Main
Pork collar, one of the most sought-after cuts, was presented as two long mounds sliced neatly, with sprinklings of spinach over a bed of shredded, tangy aubergine. It was the pinkest pork the reviewer had ever tasted, but not undercooked—requiring healthy chewing and delivering bursts of flavour. The inky richness was balanced by the alkaline punch of the aubergine, making it a show-stopping main.
Desserts included apricot and almond tart (£10), plum and melon sorbet (£8), and manchego with honey (£8), but none appealed to the reviewer's chocolate-loving palate.
Verdict
Even at close to 10pm, The Plimsoll remained lively with a crowd of young professionals. The reviewer concluded that whether it's a gastropub or a restaurant in a pub's shell, it's having its moment in the spotlight. With a menu that maintains such high standards, the momentum is likely to last. The Plimsoll is located at Thomas's Road, Finsbury Park, with bookings available via OpenTable.
