The Golden Tooth, a new gastropub on Green Lanes in Newington Green, has quickly established itself as a destination for bold, flavorful cooking. The team behind the beloved bistro Papi has matured, delivering a menu that balances indulgence with finesse.
Setting the Scene
Formerly the unremarkable Leconfield pub, The Golden Tooth has undergone a subtle yet significant transformation. The interior is spacious, featuring a dedicated dining area beneath vast skylights. Decor is restrained: a few discreet paintings, some flourishing pot plants, and no pretentious touches. It feels less like a trendy London spot and more like a proper pub, providing an ideal backdrop for the exceptional food and wine.
Food and Drink Highlights
The menu is powerful and intense. Start with a gin pickle martini or a rosemary vodka version, described as a liquid roast dinner. The first standout is chunky beef tartare, bound with creamy tonnato dressing made from smoked eel instead of tuna, topped with a gleaming egg yolk and summer truffle shavings, served with beef dripping toast. Despite the richness, the dish remains playful and light.
Next, plump mussels arrive under a silky sheet of semi-sheer lardo, evoking an edible art piece. The Montgomery cheddar custard tart, wobbly like a Basque cheesecake, melts into onion soubise and walnut ketchup, garnished with purple garlic flowers. It is visually stunning and deeply satisfying.
The stargazy pie is a paragon: golden pastry with a prawn's head poking out, packed with chicken and seafood, and pastry that is crisp on top yet temptingly soggy below. At £52, it feeds three with leftovers. One lucky diner gets the prawn head with brains intact.
Vibe and Service
The atmosphere is that of a grand boozer, welcoming both drinkers and diners. The wine list, curated by sommelier Charlie Carr, focuses on old-school natural wines, with a strong emphasis on British bottles available by the glass.
Final Verdict
Papi was good, but The Golden Tooth is truly great. It is a worthy successor, offering a dining experience that is both refined and unpretentious.
Time Out Tip: After dinner, head to Bar Etna around the corner for a £5 negroni.
