Sông Quê Phở Bar: A New Vietnamese Destination in East London
After nearly 25 years of operation, the iconic Vietnamese cafe Sông Quê has finally expanded with a new sister establishment: Sông Quê Phở Bar. Located on Commercial Street in London E1, this new offshoot focuses primarily on phở while also offering a selection of small plates from the original menu. The restaurant's arrival marks a significant moment for London's Vietnamese food scene, yet it faces challenges in attracting consistent foot traffic.
The Long-Awaited Expansion
Sông Quê, known for its weekend queues and loyal following, has taken a cautious approach to growth. Unlike many hot dining spots that expand rapidly, this east London stalwart waited decades before opening its second location. The new phở bar serves a concise menu featuring beef broth noodle soup with options like rare beef flank, chicken, prawns, or tofu, alongside dishes such as summer rolls, green papaya salad, grilled lamb chops, and savory banh khot cupcakes.
The question of whether the magic of the original Sông Quê can be replicated elsewhere looms large. Restaurant managers often face the dilemma of maintaining quality across multiple sites, and premature expansions have led to many failures in the industry.
Location and Competition
Sông Quê Phở Bar occupies a site on Commercial Street, opposite the popular Xian Biang Biang Noodles and near the Thai hotspot Som Saa. However, the Spitalfields area, bordering Aldgate and Shoreditch, has proven difficult for attracting passing trade. Previous tenants at this location, including The Pearly Queen and The Space, struggled to make an impact and closed quickly.
During a recent Sunday visit, the restaurant was notably empty, allowing diners to choose any table across both floors. Despite the lack of customers, staff remained cheerful and engaged, sharing anecdotes about the original cafe's 2002 opening.
The Dining Experience
The phở at Sông Quê Phở Bar is a standout dish, featuring thinly sliced rare beef flank served atop al dente noodles in a rich, sweet broth highlighted by star anise. The restaurant also offers bun bo hue, a spicy alternative with beef flank, pork sausage, or prawns, accompanied by fresh herbs. For those preferring non-soup options, the grilled lemongrass chicken with vermicelli provides a fiery alternative.
Small plates are equally impressive. The grilled beef wrapped in betel leaves, topped with peanuts and mint, and served with a sweet dipping sauce, showcases the kitchen's attention to detail. Spicy tempura squid and grilled lamb chops with a vinegar-based sauce further demonstrate the restaurant's commitment to quality.
The Challenge Ahead
Despite its excellent food, Sông Quê Phở Bar risks being overlooked due to its location. Midweek office workers may not be enough to sustain the business, especially when competing with establishments like Slurp Thai, which is closer to Shoreditch's main attractions. The restaurant's survival may depend on word-of-mouth and loyal patrons seeking authentic Vietnamese cuisine.
For now, Sông Quê Phở Bar offers a rare opportunity to enjoy top-tier phở in a relaxed, uncrowded setting. Priced at around £25 per person plus drinks and service, it represents excellent value for money. As the reviewer notes, this is a place to "use it or lose it"—a hidden gem that deserves support from London's dining community.
