Rachel Roddy's Medieval Lemon and Almond Tart: A Timeless Dessert Revival
Some desserts possess an enduring charm that transcends centuries, and Rachel Roddy's spiced almond and lemon treacle tart is a prime example. This recipe, inspired by a medieval-inspired creation from a Roman restaurant, combines nutty almonds, dried fruit, and zesty lemon for a dessert that feels both historic and refreshingly modern.
The Dessert Trolley's Comeback in Rome
During the Covid-19 pandemic, dessert trolleys in Italy faced significant restrictions due to strict health guidelines from the Instituto Superiore di Sanità, which deemed them potential virus carriers. Many establishments stored them away, but happily, they have since made a triumphant return. At La Torricella in Testaccio, Rome, the dessert trolley once again glides between tables, showcasing delights like a puff pastry millefoglie and a standout torta medievale.
Owner Augusto refers to this tart as "medieval" because of its spiced almond and dried fruit filling, evoking flavors from a bygone era. It's an unassuming yet exceptionally delicious treat that has captured the attention of diners and food writers alike.
A Nod to Treacle Tart and Golden Syrup's History
This torta medievale strongly recalls the classic British treacle tart, which traditionally uses golden syrup. The story of golden syrup began in 1881 when Scottish businessman Abram Lyle established a sugar refinery in London. The refining process produced a bitter treacle, initially sold as animal feed, but through further refinement, it became the sweet, viscous syrup known today.
Packaged in iconic dark green tins featuring a gold lion surrounded by bees—a reference to Samson's Riddle from the Book of Judges—golden syrup carries the motto "out of the strong came forth sweetness," reflecting Lyle's strong faith. This rich history adds depth to the tart's sweet profile.
Recipe Flexibility and Key Ingredients
Roddy's recipe allows for flexibility, permitting the use of golden syrup, honey, or a combination of both. However, she emphasizes not skimping on lemon zest and juice, which provide an essential counterbalance to the intense sweetness. The pastry uses minimal sugar to contrast the filling, ensuring a well-rounded flavor.
Once baked, the tart is delicate and should be cooled slightly before dusting with icing sugar and slicing. While some may prefer it with vanilla ice cream, Roddy recommends serving it with cold mascarpone or cream for an authentic touch, ideally from a dessert trolley to enhance the experience.
Almond and Lemon Spiced Treacle Tart Recipe
Serves 6-8
Ingredients:
- 100g butter
- 200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- 1 tsp salt
- 3 tsp caster sugar
- 400g golden syrup or honey
- 50g sultanas
- 30g pine nuts
- Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon, plus 2 tbsp lemon juice
- 1 tsp ground cloves
- 60g butter
- 100g ground almonds
- 100g soft white breadcrumbs
- 1 egg white, beaten until frothy but not stiff
- Icing sugar, for dusting
- Cream or mascarpone, to serve
Instructions:
- Make the pastry by rubbing or pulsing the butter into the flour until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add salt, sugar, and enough cold water to form a firm, malleable ball. Wrap and chill for one hour.
- On a floured surface, roll the pastry into a circle slightly larger than a 23cm tart tin (preferably loose-bottomed). Press it into the tin, leaving a slight overhang. Line with baking paper, weigh down with rice or baking beans, and bake at 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 for about 15 minutes until firm. Remove the weights and paper, then bake for another 5 minutes until golden and biscuity.
- In a pan, warm the golden syrup or honey until liquid. Add sultanas, pine nuts, lemon zest and juice, ground cloves, butter, ground almonds, and breadcrumbs. Mix in the frothy egg white, then pour into the tart case. Bake for 15 minutes until the filling is firm and the edges are deep golden.
- Allow to cool, dust with icing sugar, and serve sliced with cream or mascarpone.
This medieval-inspired tart not only delights the palate but also connects us to culinary traditions that have stood the test of time, proving that some desserts truly never go out of fashion.
