From Scottish Hospitality to Nordic Fire: A Culinary Journey Through London and Stockholm
My culinary journey last week took me away from London, weaving a tale of two Vikings that stretched from Scotland to Stockholm and back again. Allow me to introduce my fellow founders: Niklas Ekstedt of his eponymous restaurant Ekstedt and Ranald MacDonald of Boisdale, both representing distinct culinary philosophies that have shaped my own path in the restaurant world.
Boisdale of Belgravia: A Scottish Institution
When I began my entrepreneurial journey as founder of M Restaurant back in 2014, I aspired to achieve the level of success embodied by the magnificent Ranald MacDonald, founder of Boisdale. His restaurant has become a magnet for London's most influential business minds, political figures, and cigar-smoking celebrities who gather for legendary long lunches and what he calls 'dinners of genius' at the establishment he created in 1989.
The building originally occupied a modest space, but through Ranald's remarkable charm and persuasive abilities with both councillors and landlords, planning permission was secured and the venue expanded significantly over time. Ask any London businessman what Boisdale represents, and you'll receive varied responses: 'epic Burgundian lunches,' 'Jools Holland's Jazz club,' 'Wicked Whisky Bar,' 'Gentlemen's Club,' 'Cuban cigar haven,' or simply 'dining heaven.'
Ranald's authentic personality permeates every aspect of his venues. He takes immense pride in his Scottish heritage, reflected somewhat controversially in the décor choices featuring tartan carpets and blood-red walls that some might interpret as representing historical conflicts. More positively, this heritage manifests in every guest being treated like family, whether arriving for a Burns Night supper or receiving a traditional 'first footing' welcome. Whether you're Kelsey Grammer, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Muhammad Ali, or an ordinary patron, warmth and genuine hospitality are guaranteed.
This exceptional hospitality is supported by an epic wine list curated over decades by MacDonald himself, perfectly matched with a superb menu of authentic Scottish dishes. Both modern interpretations and traditional recipes hit the mark with precision and flavor excellence.
A Shared Legacy of Hospitality
Ranald, having observed my transition into custodianship of what was once called Conran Restaurants (later D&D, and now named the Evolv Collection), generously invited me to dine with him and share stories of Sir Terence Conran. He recounted their collaborative trip to Cuba while researching for their joint venture Floridita at 100 Wardour Street.
In the comfortable surroundings of Boisdale, he proudly presented his 'own label' wines from Champagne, Burgundy, and—ever the maverick—Muscat. These wines proved excellent and delightfully eccentric in their own right, much like the man himself. Our meal began with scallops and a haggis scotch egg, accompanied by mutual appreciation, gentle flattery, and some mild commentary about the political environment and certain competitors.
A beautiful Aberdeen Angus ribeye followed for me, while the 'laird' enjoyed venison, both dishes boasting superb origin stories, sustainable sourcing, and—most importantly—exceptional flavor. Without realizing it, Ranald operates as a visionary, never trapped in the past but consistently ahead of his time while the rest of us gradually catch up.
Ekstedt: Stockholm's Fire and Theatre
The most divine dinners I can recall have taken me on triple-pronged journeys: physical, sensory, and culinary. Similarly, the Ekstedt experience begins in the bar with snacks and champagne, then invites guests to stand in the kitchen as amuse bouches are prepared and served before being seated at the counter-top for the main culinary event.
During the kitchen segment, we were introduced to numerous wood-burning devices that toast, smoke, or flambé the entirety of the menu. The chefs describe their approach as 'analogue cooking.' Simply put, Ekstedt represents fire and theatre combined. Throughout the meal, chefs manage pounding flames, accelerate heat, slow-cook over coal, envelop fine ingredients with smoke, and prepare dishes with microscopic precision using tweezers.
The tone of culinary excellence is established early in the evening when reindeer fat, heated in an antique giant crushing device, is poured over sweet scallops finished with a generous topping of caviar. Raw shrimp rests on ice while being smoked with juniper and birch, remaining raw, sweet, and smoky, served with miniature green plums—a sublime combination.
The Complete Dining Experience
Throughout the dinner, a parade of passionate, well-informed waiting staff dance attentively around the tables. The sommeliers prove equally outstanding, matching small bites with precisely poured selections. A generous splash of Kisler Pinot paired remarkably with the tender, juniper-smoked reindeer saddle served with intense beetroot sauce—a spectacular pairing that elevated the entire experience.
Music plays a significant role here, as it does in many Michelin-starred establishments. However, while some restaurants select distracting soundtracks, Ekstedt carefully curates sounds from Richard Ashcroft, Modest Mouse, and Raye that contribute to a complete sensory and emotive journey. As guests move back to the bar for desserts and another drinks trolley, 'I Wanna Be Adored' provides the perfect accompaniment.
For those unable to travel to Stockholm, Ekstedt at the Yard in London has operated for five years. While my initial visit shortly after opening proved somewhat forgettable, the original Stockholm location shone so brightly that I plan to return soon to discover whether some of that Viking magic has successfully crossed the North Sea to Westminster. If not, you're always just a reindeer ride away from the comforting hospitality of Belgravia.
