A clinical program manager at the Butterfly Foundation says there has been a rise in patients showing 'appearance-related distress,' including a 'heightened focus on skin,' particularly among young people. The phenomenon, dubbed 'cosmeticorexia,' describes a preoccupation with flawless skin, raising concerns among experts about body image and mental health.
What is Cosmeticorexia?
Cosmeticorexia, also called dermorexia, is a term used to describe an obsession with achieving perfect skin. It emerged as Sephora stores saw an influx of tweens purchasing anti-aging products, and children as young as eight post skincare routines online. Italian authorities recently cracked down on beauty brands targeting younger shoppers, citing cosmeticorexia as a concern. A study by Italian researchers suggested it may represent a clinically relevant mental disorder, requiring further research and potential treatment.
Expert Concerns
Associate Prof Giovanni Damiani, a dermatologist at the University of Milan, noticed an increase in irritant and allergic contact dermatitis among eight- to 14-year-olds using chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids without prescriptions. Patients also displayed behaviors such as refusing to go out without makeup and excessive consumption of cosmetic-related videos. Grace Collinson from the Butterfly Foundation notes a rise in appearance-related distress, including heightened focus on skin and perceived imperfections, often linked to social media use.
However, cosmeticorexia is not an official clinical diagnosis. Dr Jasmine Fardouly from the University of Sydney warns that new medicalized terms can add confusion, especially when symptoms overlap with body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), which involves excessive concern about facial features. Children as young as six report body image concerns, she adds.
The Role of Social Media
Influencer marketing and targeted advertising have created a landscape where flaws are magnified and monetized. Young people learn to fear aging before it begins and are sold expensive products to achieve perfection. Fifteen-year-old Erin from Sydney watches skincare videos and uses high-end products, though she denies having cosmeticorexia. She notes that peers use retinol products meant for older skin.
Dr Deshan Sebaratnam, a dermatologist, calls cosmeticorexia 'a new mutation of an old problem,' akin to a pop culture term for BDD. He emphasizes that while many are unhappy with their appearance, it becomes problematic when it affects functioning.
Broader Implications
Collinson says non-clinical labels may inadvertently medicalize behaviors that do not meet disorder criteria or dilute the seriousness of conditions like BDD. The Italian researchers liken cosmeticorexia to orthorexia, an extreme obsession with healthy eating, also not officially classified as a disorder. They aim to understand the phenomenon through further studies.
Fardouly notes that over 50% of young people are unhappy with their looks, but excessive preoccupation warrants help-seeking. Imagery promoting unattainable beauty ideals can lead to internalization and body image concerns. The debate continues: is cosmeticorexia a new disorder or just a new term for an old problem?
