Switzerland lives up to its postcard image: sparkling lakes, chocolate-box villages and snow-dusted Alpine resorts. But today, it comes with challenges: eye-watering prices, overcrowding and an elitist reputation. The solution lies in Vaud, a mountainous district bordered by Lake Geneva to the south and France to the west. Famous for its focus on ‘slow tourism’, this canton encourages visitors to take things handy and fully immerse in local culture. The best things are free: swimming in lakes, strolling through markets, and hiking in the mountains.
Morges: A Charming Lakeside Town
Morges, an historic town founded in 1286 and located about 40 minutes from Geneva, lacks a headline attraction. Instead, its appeal lies in natural beauty, a chilled-out atmosphere, and spectacular countryside. Elegant lakeside hotels sit beside independent cafés, and colourful flower displays line the waterfront. Each spring since 1971, the Tulip Festival transforms the waterfront with more than 140,000 bulbs planted across parks and promenades. The tulips originated from the Himalayas and were introduced to Europe in the mid-16th century. Running from April to May, it attracts around 300,000 visitors each year, making it one of the largest spring events in the region.
Surrounding villages maintain a consistent look through strict regulations on the colours residents can use. Beyond the waterfront, visitors can stop by Espace 81, a contemporary art gallery hosting a temporary Audrey Hepburn exhibition this summer. Also worth a visit is the Fondation Jan Michalski in Montricher, a place built on the arts, drawing inspiration from Scandinavian authors and designers, and architects from Brazil and Chile. Its most striking feature is a collection of elevated writer residences that resemble modern treehouses.
Château de Vullierens: Wine and Scenery
Just outside Morges, Château de Vullierens is a historic family estate spanning more than 100 hectares, including six hectares of vineyards. Swiss wine is almost never exported: the country produces 99 million litres per year and consumes the vast majority domestically. A wine tasting experience typically costs around CHF 92 (£85). On the grounds, visitors also have access to themed walks, contemporary sculptures and thousands of flowers.
Nyon: Roman Roots and Local Culture
Nyon, another lakeside town only 20 minutes by train from Morges (prices from as little as £6.50 one-way), feels distinctly different. Founded by the Romans under Julius Caesar between 50 and 44 BC, Nyon is deeply rooted in its past. Natural drinking fountains are everywhere—tucked into squares, lining streets and appearing unexpectedly around corners. According to guide Heidi, everyone uses them, and they are all preserved, allowing locals to feel part of ancient history.
The town offers a self-guided Tintin tour, celebrating the famous comic character’s connection to the region, and attractions such as the Swiss National Museum of Motorcycles and Musée du Léman – The Lake Geneva Museum. For local cuisine, book a table at Chez Mon Oncle, where a hearty meal for two costs around CHF 95 (£88). Make sure to order cheese specialities like Malakoff, which showcase the canton’s indulgent side.
The Toblerone Trail and Rolle
Rested and refuelled, visitors can set off on part of the famous Toblerone Trail, named for anti-tank fortifications built during World War II whose triangular shape resembles the iconic Swiss chocolate bar. The 18km hike takes you through some 3,000 triangular tank traps hidden among leafy trees and babbling rivers, between the Jura peaks and Lake Geneva. If time allows, visit Rolle, a charming lakeside town where you can see the Île de la Harpe – the only island on Lake Geneva.
Nyon’s Sunday market features local cheeses such as raclette, cured meats, fresh bread, honey, nougat, rotisserie, olives, and fresh vegetables that showcase the region’s agricultural prowess. Nyon is also home to the Paléo Festival, one of Switzerland’s biggest music events, where locals enjoy free live music, performances and cultural events. It runs from July 21-26, but this year’s event is already sold out.
Getting There and Practical Tips
SWISS Airlines fly direct from London to Geneva from £113, with a journey time of around two hours. There is a train station in Geneva Airport with services that will have you in Vaud in under an hour. A single journey from Geneva Airport to Morges costs around CHF 16 (£15), depending on the ticket type and time of travel. Public transport makes getting around relatively straightforward.
