Burro Restaurant Review: An Elegant Italian Escape in Covent Garden
Burro, a new Italian restaurant nestled in Covent Garden, London, has quickly captured attention, not least because of its chef-owner Conor Gadd. Gadd is renowned for Trullo in Islington, a long-standing favorite that has topped recommendation lists for over 15 years. While culinary trends have shifted—embracing no-reservations policies and minimalist seating—Trullo has steadfastly remained a sophisticated, grown-up dining destination. Now, with Burro, Gadd brings that same authority and timeless charm to a more tourist-centric part of town, specifically located just minutes from Covent Garden tube station, off King Street in a hidden courtyard leading to Floral Street.
A Menu Rooted in Tradition with Hearty Elegance
The menu at Burro echoes elements of its sister restaurant Trullo but leans more toward elegant yet hearty offerings. Starters include a rough-hewn, well-seasoned Venetian chicken liver pâté served on a thick slab of bruschetta—a dish so substantial it could easily double as a main course when paired with a crisp white wine or a classic negroni. Another antipasto delight is the fried artichoke with bottarga, featuring chunky, lightly battered artichoke that evokes calamari with hints of salty fishiness. The fresh focaccia is equally impressive, boasting a glossy, crisp exterior with a springy, moist interior.
Moving through the menu, primi courses showcase tagliarini with clams and strozzapreti with pork and chilli. Secondi offerings are equally robust, such as a whole lemon sole in prosecco sauce and a vitello al burro—a veal Milanese that is breadcrumbed, buttery, and rich with garlic. The braised beef shin on polenta stands out as pure comfort food, with the polenta nearly submerged in butter and the beef tender enough to rival nursery fare.
An Oasis of Serenity in a Bustling Locale
Burro is spacious yet far from brash, offering an oasis of pristine sanity in a postcode often dominated by fire-breathing buskers and novelty Guinness hats. The restaurant's design is elegant and defiantly serene, with a color scheme described as a rhapsody of unobtrusive beige and taupe, accented by non-jarring bursts of ombre. Luxurious touches include real tablecloths and a knowledgeable staff, some of whom have migrated from Trullo, ready to guide diners through the menu while they sip on inventive cocktails like the Donkey Kick, made with whisky, chartreuse, lime juice, and poitín—Irish moonshine that adds a unique twist.
Standout Dishes and Creative Twists
For many, the highlight of Burro is the fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu, a creative spin on Trullo's classic beef shin ragu. This dish is rich, silky, decadent, and arguably one of the best pasta offerings in a neighborhood already saturated with Italian cuisine. It's available as a sharing portion or a self-indulgent serving for the truly hungry.
Dessert brings a playful reinterpretation of tiramisu, served in doughnut form. This version features warm ricotta dough sprinkled with sugar and blitzed ladyfingers, all atop a pile of coffee cream laced with marsala. While purists might debate its authenticity, it offers a delightful fusion reminiscent of Blackpool promenade doughnut stalls meeting the romantic essence of Bologna.
The Big Question: Does Central London Need Another Italian Restaurant?
With established favorites like Locatelli at the National Gallery and newcomers like Osteria Vibrato, plus the resurgence of Jamie's Italian in Leicester Square, one might question the need for another Italian spot in central London. However, Burro makes a compelling case with its blend of old-school charm and innovative dishes. It's a testament to Gadd's vision that he can recreate the bespoke loveliness of Trullo in a larger, tourist-heavy setting, offering a dining experience that feels both familiar and refreshingly new.
Burro Details: 2 Floral Court, Floral Street, London WC2, 020-4580 1495. Open all week, with lunch from 12.30-3pm and dinner from 5.30-10.30pm (9.30pm on Sundays). Expect to pay around £70 per person for three courses, plus drinks and service.
