Zagreb, the Croatian capital, can be thoroughly explored in just 24 hours, offering a blend of medieval history, quirky museums, and affordable nightlife, even in the rain. With return flights from London Stansted at £47, the city presents a budget-friendly alternative to Croatia's coastal hotspots.
A Spontaneous Arrival in the Rain
The author's first impression was damp: stepping out of an Uber into a downpour, with Birkenstocks soaked and a hastily purchased Šestine umbrella. Yet, the city quickly revealed its charm. A chance encounter with Helena, a tour guide, led to a ride on the Fulir, a free electric golf-buggy service designed for the elderly and those with limited mobility, but open to all. Running daily from 8am to 8pm, it offers a unique, spontaneous way to see the city center.
Helena's philosophy is to live in the moment: “Stop taking notes. You can re-read all of this information later. In Zagreb, we are in the moment.” She packs her rucksack each morning “ready to not return until the next.” Her favorite spot is Jazz Cafe, where live music continues into the early hours. The city's nightlife spans rock bars, street-side terraces, and underground techno clubs, with beers at €2.50 and house wine at €3, making it one of Europe's most affordable capitals.
Highlights of the Lower Town
The Fulir's routes vary, but highlights include Ban Jelačić Square, with its bustling markets, and Cvjetni Square, home to an attractive bell tower. At Zrinjevac Park, signs of the 2020 earthquake remain; two people were killed and 27 injured. “We are still rebuilding,” Helena explains. Nearby, the Art Pavilion, a palatial yellow structure, hosts gallery exhibitions and Croatian National Theatre Ballet rehearsals. For a different vibe, the Orient Express bar is styled like the iconic train, with wood fittings and leather upholstery.
Tkalčićeva Street, a pedestrian thoroughfare, follows the path of the old Medveščak stream, once dividing the medieval settlements of Kaptol and Gradec. It is home to a statue of Marija Jurić Zagorka, Croatia's first female journalist and a novelist and women's rights advocate. The street is lined with colorful buildings, restaurants, and shops.
The Upper Town and Its Quirks
The Upper Town retains medieval architecture, including the Cravat Regiment marching in traditional dress and the Grič Cannon firing from Lotrščak Tower at midday. The Stone Gate, built in 1242, houses a shrine to the Virgin Mary. The Zagreb Card (€38 for 24 hours, €48 for 72 hours) offers free public transport and admission to attractions like the Zagreb City Museum and the Museum of Broken Relationships, which displays relics from failed romances, including a onesie, a horse shoe, and a fridge with a slice of birthday cake.
The world's shortest funicular, a 66-metre ride taking less than 60 seconds, connects the Upper and Lower towns. Despite lacking the Adriatic's aesthetics, Zagreb proves a lovely place to spend a day. Direct flights from UK airports like Manchester, Birmingham, Newcastle, Edinburgh, and London Stansted start from £16 one-way in September. Accommodation ranges from Tia Apartments and Rooms (£59/€69 per night) to Novotel Zagreb (£87/€102) and the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel (£120/€140). Even in the rain, the city left a smile.
