Sardinian travel writer Claudia Tavani, founder of the website Strictly Sardinia, has visited more than nine Italian islands, but she keeps returning to San Pietro, a small island off the southwest coast of Sardinia. She told Travel Editor Alice Murphy that despite being born and raised on Sardinia, San Pietro is her favourite because of its distinct culture, food, and seasonal charm.
A unique cultural heritage shaped by Ligurian settlers
San Pietro's main town, Carloforte, was founded in the 18th century by the Tabarchini, Ligurian families whose ancestors had previously settled on the Tunisian island of Tabarka. This history remains alive today: locals speak Tabarchino, an old Ligurian dialect, and the island's cuisine blends Ligurian, Sardinian, and North African influences. The town's architecture resembles Genoa, with scenic caruggi—narrow alleys lined with colourful buildings.
Tavani notes that while foreigners hardly know about San Pietro, Sardinians love it. The island's cultural difference from Sardinia is a key draw, making it feel like a separate destination despite its proximity.
Food and tuna fishing traditions draw repeat visits
Food is one of Tavani's main reasons for returning. Carloforte has a centuries-old tuna-fishing tradition, with the mattanza—a ritual for trapping and harvesting Mediterranean blue-fin tuna—typically taking place in June. During tuna season, excellent seafood restaurants offer dishes where tuna is the main ingredient. Other local specialties include cascà, the Carloforte version of couscous.
Tavani visited in early August this year and took a boat tour around the island. Even at the peak of the Italian summer, she saw only a fraction of the boats you would encounter around heavily visited places like La Maddalena. The island is a popular holiday spot for people from southern Sardinia, yet remains surprisingly little known to international visitors.
Seasonal contrasts and practical travel tips
The atmosphere in San Pietro changes dramatically with the seasons. In summer, Carloforte and the rest of the island are incredibly lively. Outside summer, it becomes much quieter but still pleasant for a few days, which Tavani appreciates because she doesn't associate it only with beaches or summer holidays. She enjoys being in Carloforte, eating there, walking around town, and seeing how its character changes throughout the year.
The island is shaped by strong winds, which are common and part of the experience. Tavani recommends giving yourself plenty of time on the island, as wind can disrupt activities like boat tours. She only managed to do the boat tour after years of trying and having it cancelled because of the wind. San Pietro also offers beautiful beaches, impressive cliffs, salt pans, and spectacular sunset viewpoints.
San Pietro lies about 50 miles from Cagliari, off the south-western coast of mainland Sardinia. Ferries to Carloforte leave from Portovesme and Calasetta; the first takes about 40 minutes, the second 30 minutes. There are several daytime sailings approximately every hour, and a night service only from Calasetta.
