Summer Hiking in the Swiss Alps: A Journey from Gentle Strolls to Zipline Thrills
The vertiginous Valais canton in south-west Switzerland offers a plethora of adventures for summer hikers, ranging from abseiling down deep gorges to wild swims in glacial pools. Nights are spent swapping hiking tales in cozy mountain huts, creating unforgettable memories in the heart of the Alps.
Thick grey-green mud squelches between my toes as I step into the icy, irresistible water. On the descent from the Britannia Hut at the foot of the Allalinhorn in the Valais canton, this turquoise pool of glacial meltwater has been a tantalizing sight for an hour. After peeling off five layers of clothing, I plunge into the murky water, finding bliss after a night in a shared dorm without showers.
Accessible Alpine Slopes and High-Altitude Beginnings
In winter, the jagged ridges of the Valais are reserved for expert skiers and ice climbers, but in summer, the lower slopes become accessible to hikers. Well-marked trails provide security, ranging from gentle strolls to serious alpine routes, all enhanced by existing ski lift infrastructure. My journey begins in Saas-Fee, a car-free high-altitude village, where I stay at the Walliserhof Grand-Hotel, famous for hosting Wham! during the filming of the Last Christmas music video. From my balcony, I enjoy views of church spires, geranium-covered balconies, and towering mountains.
Thrilling Via Ferrata Adventures in the Sass-Fee Alpine Canyon
Between Saas-Fee and Saas-Grund lies the deep Sass-Fee Alpine Canyon, accessible only with a guide. A via ferrata system of ladders, metal rungs, and cables allows climbers to tackle high-level routes while clipped into a safety cable. Guided by Aldo Lomatter, who built this route, we criss-cross the gorge on wobbly bridges, climb rock faces, and zip through gulleys on ziplines. The challenges intensify, culminating in a 40-metre abseil to the riverbed and a final zipline into a dark cave, ending in the sunlit hamlet of Saas-Grund.
Mountain Hut Experience at Britannia Hut
After a fondue lunch, a gondola and cable car take me to Morenia for a gentle two-hour hike to the Britannia Hut at 3,030 metres. Built in 1912 as a gift from British members of the Swiss Alpine Club, the hut offers jaw-dropping views over the Allalin glacier. Accommodation is simple, with shared dormitories, communal plastic clogs, and no showers. Dinner is served family-style, featuring hearty mountain food like cream of vegetable soup, saffron risotto, and roast beef. Hiking tales are shared in multiple languages, and early breakfasts cater to summit-bound guests.
Relaxation and Further Exploration in Champéry
Returning to Saas-Fee, I relax at the WellnessHostel 4000 spa, enjoying a swimming pool and saunas with views of the gorge. A free PostBus and train take me to Champéry, where I stay at Hôtel Suisse and dine at Café du Nord. The next day, I tackle Champéry’s Tière via ferrata, climbing steep cliffs and crossing a single wire above the River Tière. After lunch, a cable car ride to 1,962 metres reveals lush grasslands, where I buy fresh cheese from honesty boxes. Hiking to the Col de Cou mountain pass, I stand on the French-Swiss border, overlooking stunning ridges.
Rural Retreat and Culinary Delights at Cantine de Barmaz
Descending to the Barme plateau, I find refuge at Cantine de Barmaz, a rural restaurant with rooms. The house special, choléra, a leek, potato, and cheese pie, provides perfect post-hike fortification with Swiss wine. As dusk falls, the Dents du Midi peaks glow in umber and gold. I retire to a dormitory bed, lulled by the sounds of tired hikers and distant cowbells, ending an exhilarating Alpine adventure.
Practical Information: The trip was supported by Saas-Fee Saastal, Région Dents du Midi, and Visit Switzerland. Half-board at Britannia Hut costs CHF98 per night for non-members, while Cantine de Barmaz offers dorm rooms from CHF68. For more details, visit regional tourism websites.
