A Luxury Escape Where Whales Greet the Morning
For any American with a passion for authentic Mexican food, the craving only intensifies after time spent in the UK, where such culinary delights are far scarcer. So, when the opportunity arose for a lavish breakfast at the Chileno Bay Resort & Residences, Auberge Resorts Collection in Los Cabos during a recent October morning, nothing was going to break my focus. Or so I thought.
Seated in the gentle, pre-humid sunshine at the resort's open-air Comal restaurant, overlooking the stunning Sea of Cortez, I was utterly absorbed by my iced café de olla and a plate of egg-topped chilaquiles. I had chosen the traditional tortillas divorciados, a dish perfectly split between rich red salsa and a vibrant green tomatillo sauce.
Then, a movement on the horizon caught my eye. A dark, smooth arch broke the surface of the waves, followed by a distinctive plume of mist. A whale. And I was watching it from my breakfast table. The sight was stunning in itself, but the surprise was compounded by the timing; this was October, weeks before the official whale-watching season typically begins.
Los Cabos: A Marine Wonderland on Your Doorstep
Nestled on the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California peninsula in the state of Baja California Sur, Los Cabos has long been a favourite warm-weather getaway for Americans from the West Coast. It's a convenient three-hour flight from Los Angeles or San Francisco, and travellers from London can now reach it with a single stop via hubs like Frankfurt, Mexico City, or Dallas.
While the area is famous for its glossy, high-end resorts—Auberge alone operates two properties here—its most compelling attraction lies offshore. Los Cabos sits at the confluence of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez, creating a marine corridor teeming with life. Annually, from mid-November to April, the region transforms into one of Mexico's premier whale-watching destinations. Thousands of humpback and grey whales journey from the chilly feeding grounds of Alaska and the Bering Sea to mate and give birth in Baja's sheltered, warmer bays.
The humpbacks are the acrobats of the sea, known for their dramatic breaches and powerful tail slaps. On rare occasions, lucky observers might even spot blue whales, fin whales, or orcas. While tour operators run excursions from the marina, Chileno Bay’s prime location on 22 seafront acres offers a rarer privilege: the chance to witness these marine giants without ever leaving the comfort of the resort.
A Swimmable Sanctuary in Los Cabos
This distinction cannot be overstated. The raw beauty of Los Cabos often comes with dangerous surf and strong undertows, rendering most of its dramatic, photogenic beaches completely unswimmable. Chileno Bay is a glorious exception.
The resort is built around a naturally protected cove, home to one of the few Blue Flag-certified beaches in Los Cabos, which guarantees international standards for water quality and safety. The sand is a fine, pale gold, and the water is exceptionally clear, allowing you to see your toes sink into the seabed. Mornings can be spent snorkelling to the coral reef just offshore, a vibrant ecosystem populated by parrotfish, angelfish, and sea turtles.
At the chic beachfront H2O Cave activity centre, guests can borrow complimentary paddleboards, kayaks, and snorkelling gear to explore further. The coral reef is a mere 18 metres from the shoreline, making it one of the most accessible spots in Los Cabos to discover the underwater world without needing a boat. There is a profound magic in beginning your day with a swim in an endless blue horizon, knowing that somewhere out there, whales are tracing their ancient migratory paths.
Indulgence and Gastronomy Between Adventures
Between aquatic explorations, the resort excels at pampering its guests. The design ethos is California-cool, with creamy white stone and blond wood villas cascading down a gently sloping hillside. Three infinity pools reflect the sky beside gardens of cacti and desert roses, complemented by airy private cabanas. A sophisticated spa features a salt cave and an invigorating frosty plunge pool for ultimate relaxation.
The culinary experience is equally centred on the ocean. At the signature Comal restaurant, where I enjoyed my whale-spotted breakfast, Chef Yvan Mucharraz—an alumnus of the legendary The French Laundry—reimagines coastal Mexican cuisine. His menu features exquisite dishes like sea scallops a la diabla with fermented chilli sauce, Baja mussels with a mezcal sauce and rare comapeño chilli flakes, and red snapper from La Paz served with a pineapple and avocado salad.
For a more casual vibe, TnT, the resort's toes-in-the-sand taco and tequila bar, serves zesty shrimp tacos and refreshing ceviche under palm fronds, with the sound of waves providing the soundtrack. The newest addition, Yaya, draws inspiration from the eastern Mediterranean, pairing Greek and Middle Eastern flavours with fresh Baja produce, but the consistent theme across all venues is a commitment to freshness and regionality.
While the resort is a destination in itself, the wider Los Cabos area offers incredible ocean expeditions. A short sail from Chileno Bay takes you to the iconic Arch of Cabo San Lucas, a famous photo spot where sea lions bask on the rocks. For a truly dramatic experience, a private charter to the Pacific side offers the chance to witness whales breaching against a sunset sky—a breathtaking natural spectacle that proves true luxury is always found in rarity.
Rates at Chileno Bay Resort & Residences start from £788. The resort is conveniently located just a 30-minute drive from Los Cabos International Airport (SJD), with several airlines offering daily connecting flights from London Heathrow.
