Cambodia is a haven for backpackers, where a few pounds stretch far, hostels are plentiful, and tuktuks cost less than a morning coffee back home. Instead of chasing bargain beds, one journalist decided to explore the country at opposite ends of the spectrum: starting at one of the grandest hotels, Raffles Hotel Le Royal, then swapping Egyptian cotton sheets for a sleeping bag in the jungle, and ending on an idyllic private island, Six Senses Krabey Island. The experiment sought to determine which experience would leave the biggest impression.
Colonial Opulence in Phnom Penh
The journey began in Phnom Penh at Raffles Hotel Le Royal. After landing at the city's gleaming new $2 billion Techo International Airport, a short taxi ride leads to the hotel, but stepping through its gates feels like travelling much further back in time. Uniformed staff greeted the journalist by name before she climbed out of the car, while a porter whisked away her suitcase on a red carpet as she walked beneath the elegant white portico.
Opened in 1929, Raffles has spent almost a century welcoming royalty, diplomats, writers, and Hollywood's finest. Jacqueline Kennedy stayed here during her famous visit to Cambodia in 1967, and Charles de Gaulle was among the many dignitaries to have passed through its doors. The grandeur includes polished marble floors, soaring ceilings, sweeping staircases, and tropical gardens wrapped around a beautiful swimming pool, creating an oasis in the middle of Cambodia's energetic capital. The room overlooked the gardens and featured artisan gin in the minibar, luxurious Sodashi toiletries, and a bed that makes one wonder whether they will ever want to leave. Downstairs, the Elephant Bar is an institution where the famous Femme Fatale cocktail was created for Jackie O (before she was Jackie O). The hotel itself feels like a museum, with black-and-white photographs lining the corridors and antique furnishings filling the public spaces.
Jungle Trekking to Mount Aural
The following morning, the journalist met her guide from Lina Smile Tours and headed towards Mount Aural, Cambodia's highest peak at 1,813 metres. The contrast could not have been greater. Gone were the polished floors, artisan gin, and air conditioning. In their place came muddy trails, river crossings, and dense rainforest stretching as far as the eye could see. Unlike Cambodia's famous temple circuit, there were no other tourists on the trek—just the occasional monk. The soundtrack was deafening cicadas echoing through the jungle.
Due to a tight schedule, the journalist tackled the entire 30-kilometre route in a single day. She noted that it is certainly possible but would not necessarily recommend it, advising others to split the hike over two days to properly appreciate the landscape. As darkness fell, the group reached their campsite, where tents were pitched beneath towering trees and dinner was cooked over an open fire. They swapped stories beneath a sky full of stars, with no phone signal, no cocktails, and no room service—just the occasional rustle from the surrounding forest. The journalist did not miss the comforts left behind, except for a cockerel outside her tent that decided 4am was the perfect time for a wake-up call. The following morning, an early start rewarded them with sunrise over Cambodia's highest mountains as mist drifted through the valleys below.
Private Island Indulgence at Six Senses Krabey Island
After hiking through the jungle, the journalist ventured down south in a taxi and boarded a private speedboat bound for Six Senses Krabey Island. If Raffles represents Cambodia's colonial opulence, Six Senses is its modern luxury. The private island resort is hidden among tropical forest just off the southern coastline, with villas tucked discreetly among the trees, each complete with its own private infinity pool. Within minutes of arriving, one of the island's resident monkeys wandered past the terrace as though welcoming the journalist to the neighbourhood. Hornbills glided overhead while butterflies drifted through the gardens.
After sleeping in a tent the previous night, the resort's spectacular spa felt less like an indulgence and more like a necessity. The 2,000-square-metre wellness centre features treatment rooms, a yoga pavilion, gym, sauna, and steam room—exactly what aching legs dream of after hiking 30km through the mountains. The journalist combined sauna sessions with yoga and a massage, feeling human again. As sunset approached, guests gathered for happy hour overlooking the Gulf of Thailand before dinner. One evening, she tucked into a fragrant mushroom and coconut curry made using mushrooms grown on the island itself. The following night, it was perfectly cooked Cambodian lobster at AHA, the resort's signature restaurant. Floating in her private pool the next morning, watching birds skim the water while jungle sounds echoed around the island, it was hard to believe she had been sleeping on hard wood slats less than 48 hours earlier.
Which Experience Was Worth It?
Each experience offered something completely different. Raffles immersed the journalist in Cambodia's rich history and timeless elegance. The mountain camp delivered the kind of adventure money cannot buy, even if the 4am cockerel was not included in the brochure. Six Senses was a reminder that sometimes slowing down is the greatest luxury of all. All are worthy in their own way, and the biggest takeaway is that one does not have to limit oneself to a single experience. Cambodia is one of those rare destinations where you really can have it all.
