The Albanian Alps, also known as the Accursed Mountains, offer a rugged wilderness of soaring limestone peaks, sweeping valleys, and glacial lakes, drawing comparisons to the Dolomites but with far fewer tourists and remarkably low prices, including local beer for around £1. This remote region, spanning Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro, is emerging as a top destination for hikers seeking unspoiled trails and authentic mountain culture, a world away from the crowded paths of northern Italy.
A Seven-Day Challenge Across Three Countries
Writer Sadie Whitelocks embarked on a seven-day Balkans Three Peak Challenge, aiming to summit some of the region's highest mountains. The journey began in Tirana, Albania's capital, before heading north to a surprisingly cosy mountain lodge. Contrary to expectations of basic bunk rooms and cold showers, the lodge offered comfortable alpine-style rooms and a taste of local cuisine, including flaky byrek filled with meat, cheese, or spinach, stuffed peppers known as speca të mbushura, and flija, a traditional layered pancake-like dish. A local Korça beer costs roughly £1, making the experience wonderfully affordable.
The first target was Mount Korab, standing at 2,764 metres, the highest peak in both Albania and North Macedonia. A group of 16 hikers from the UK, US, Australia, and New Zealand set off together, united by a shared reaction: why haven't more people discovered this place? Their guide, Roy Petrofski, who has climbed worldwide and spent two years guiding in Alaska, was drawn back to the Balkans, his homeland. The trail was remarkably clean, with wildflowers embroidering the slopes and wild strawberries and forget-me-nots along the path, rather than litter. Only a handful of other hikers were seen; mostly, the companions were cows and the occasional shepherd.
Summits, Glacial Lakes, and Local Hospitality
After several hours of climbing, the group reached the summit of Korab, where Albania and North Macedonia unfurled beneath them. Lunch was enjoyed surrounded by mountains before the descent, rewarded by a dip in an ice-cold swimming hole and, naturally, another £1 beer. That evening, the group crossed into Kosovo and spent the night in the historic town of Gjakova, home to one of the country's oldest and longest traditional bazaars. The next day brought Gjeravica, Kosovo's highest mountain at 2,656 metres, with the trail becoming more remote, hiking between mountain guesthouses each night. Blueberries carpeted the ground, and local women were seen picking them with young children in tow, offering an idyllic glimpse of mountain life far removed from Europe's tourist hotspots.
The Accursed Mountains are dotted with high-altitude glacial pools, many of which make irresistible swimming spots. Roy noted that his Hike & Swim trips have become increasingly popular as wild swimming takes off. With temperatures pushing into the high 20s, the icy water was more salvation than punishment. At the Gacaferi Guest House, run by Safete Gacaferi and her family, a birthday in the group prompted an extravagant dinner, with a flavoursome rice dish so popular that several people went back for thirds.
Weather Challenges and Unforgettable Views
The following day was the longest, with more than 20km of hiking ahead. Part of the route followed the Peaks of the Balkans, a 192km circular trail through the remote mountain region spanning Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. It was busier than some trails, but 'busy' was a relative term. At a shepherd's hut, a local man served coffee and blueberry cake, with extraordinary views from his humble home. At the next lodge, breakfast came with another winning rice-based dish: rice pudding.
Then came Zla Kolata, Montenegro's highest peak at 2,534 metres. Guides Roy and Igli Xhafaj warned this could be the toughest summit yet, with steep sections and scrambling near the top. The group set off confidently, but without warning, the weather changed. Clouds rolled in and rain began to fall. With the summit still ahead, Roy and Igli made the sensible decision to turn around, prioritising safety over bragging rights. Back at the lodge, the clouds cleared, and the night sky exploded with stars.
Reflecting on the adventure, Whitelocks noted she had expected mountains, but not landscapes that could rival the Dolomites. She hadn't expected such empty trails, generous hosts, extraordinary food, or swimming in glacial lakes in the middle of a hiking day. The region feels little like a European tourist destination – for now. She even managed to leave her hiking shoes at the final lodge, perhaps a subconscious attempt to ensure a return visit.
