Spain has banned Francoist symbols, yet the country remains dotted with kitsch cafes and restaurants that glorify the dictator. These establishments, such as Una Grande Libre in Madrid's Usera neighborhood, feature portraits of Francisco Franco, Francoist mottos, and paraphernalia that celebrate his regime. The existence of these venues persists despite the 2022 Democratic Memory Law, which mandates the removal of such symbols from public spaces.
The Ruta 36 Phenomenon
Many of these bars are located along highways, forming a route known as Ruta 36, named after the year of Franco's coup. Owners like José Antonio Delgado of El Cangrejo play Francoist anthems and sell memorabilia. Some establishments offer free meals to customers who collect stamps from each bar along the route.
Una Grande Libre: A Case Study
Owned by Chinese immigrant Xiangwei Chen, who named his son Franco, the bar is a hub for nostalgia. Chen received a "knight of honor" title from the National Francisco Franco Foundation, which received public grants until its abolition under the new law. The bar's continued operation highlights the slow implementation of the legislation.
Lawyer Eduardo Ranz criticizes the Ministry of Democratic Memory for failing to open inquiries against these establishments. While progress has been made, such as renaming the Valley of the Fallen, many challenges remain, including the recovery of bodies from mass graves and education reform.
These Francoist bars serve as a stark reminder of Spain's unresolved past, where even in the capital, a 2-meter-tall portrait of the dictator greets diners.
