Gordon Ramsay has opened his 100th restaurant on the 59th floor of 22 Bishopsgate, the highest dining spot in Europe. City AM was the first to try the food at this new Bread Street Kitchen. Here is our honest review and what to order.
The Setting
The restaurant sits atop one of London's most sought-after addresses. The views are spectacular: the Walkie-Talkie looks like a toy, and planes fly past at a similar height, which is mildly terrifying. However, the atmosphere is typical of blingy rooftop bars: loud music, a DJ with sunglasses indoors, and a crowd from Essex. Older couples give up and stare out the window. Many tables lack window views, which is a missed opportunity. If you book at sunset, you can enjoy a perspective of the Thames reminiscent of EastEnders.
The Drinks
For an arrival drink, the blueberry martini is too sweet, but the dirty martini is fine. Service is speedy despite the first week of opening.
The Food
The menu is an elevated expression of Bread Street Kitchen's seasonal British fare. Starters include a grown-up steak and veal tartare with bitter leaves and pane carasau, and a highlight: lobster and prawn toast served as a palm-sized parcel with a perfect crunch-to-fish ratio, elevated by Tobiko mayonnaise. A spiced cauliflower dish with coconut yoghurt and tamarind chutney is indulgent yet healthy.
Gordon's Fried Chicken comes with caviar, though the author skipped the fish eggs. The Australian Wagyu Picanha is straightforwardly but brilliantly cooked. Other dishes include an XL king prawn and Ramsay's famous 'Idiot' sandwich with beef brisket, cheese, mushroom, and tomato chutney at a fairly accessible £26. The mac and cheese is superlative: deep cheese flavor, crisp top, and well-seasoned paprika fries.
Desserts
The sticky toffee pudding with burnt vanilla ice cream is elevated, as is the Meyer Lemon Cheesecake shaped like a lemon with strawberry and basil compote. Both are fairly priced at £10.50.
Final Verdict
Despite the generic branding, the food is no plane food. It is a solid addition to the Bishopsgate rooftop, though one wishes for a more unique concept. Bookings are open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
