Matt Tyrnauer's documentary 'Nobu' offers an affectionate portrait of chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, revealing the obsession and loss behind his luxury sushi empire. The film, which premieres on digital platforms from 18 May, finds surprising emotional depth beneath the glossy surface of the Nobu brand, with a cameo from Robert De Niro.
The Rise of a Culinary Pioneer
In Japan, the sushi bar where the chef chops fish for the clientele is a kind of stage. For Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, the world has become that stage, with his deluxe Nobu chain spreading across dozens of cities globally. Tyrnauer's chirpy documentary charts the rise of this affable but restless pioneer, motivated since his career's start to break out of insular Japan and revolutionize its cuisine. Signature dishes like black cod with miso, made with Alaskan sablefish, and Peruvian-influenced yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno veer far from the sushi-restaurant template. However, the film emphasizes that this is not fusion; it remains Japanese food, open to foreign ingredients and techniques.
From Probation to Global Success
Matsuhisa's journey began with a rocky start. After reckless driving as a young man, he was placed on probation and subsequently got 'lost in sushi.' Following stints in Peru and Alaska, he established Matsuhisa restaurant on Los Angeles' La Cienega Boulevard, which made his name. This venture introduced a sense of the unexpected and lavish to the burgeoning western appetite for sushi. Robert De Niro, a convert, offered to set up a New York branch, but Matsuhisa refused, feeling unprepared. Years later, they finally partnered to create the first Nobu restaurant. When an acquaintance questioned how Matsuhisa could be a master if he merely chopped raw fish, De Niro testily replied, 'Nobu wouldn't like to hear you say that.'
Corporate Promo or Emotional Depth?
The documentary verges on corporate promotion at times, but the second half offers telling vignettes. One scene shows Matsuhisa rebuking Los Cabos hotel staff for sloppy dish preparation; another depicts De Niro rejecting a partner's ill-fitting ideas for new Nobu locations. Both illustrate the difficulty of maintaining a coherent culinary and brand culture in globalized ventures. Matsuhisa appears to supply Japanese aestheticism and rigor at the center of things. A colleague suggests his sensitivity to failure is very Japanese: he came close to suicide after his Alaska restaurant burned down and remains haunted by responsibility for his best friend's suicide. However, having lost his father traumatically early, this anxiety may be personal. Either way, this sensitivity paid off in the kitchen.
Nobu is available on digital platforms from 18 May.
