Café Clement Review: Soho House Founder's Glitzy New London Bistro
Café Clement Review: Soho House Founder's New London Bistro

Café Clement, the all-day bistro on the ground floor of the St Clement hotel in London, has earned a five-star review from Time Out, with critic Leonie Cooper praising its food, ambiance, and star-studded clientele. The restaurant, located at 12 Temple Place, is the latest venture from Nick Jones, founder of the Soho House empire, and features a menu crafted by former River Cafe head chef Danny Bohan.

Location and Ambiance

Situated on what Time Out calls the most stylish block in central London, Café Clement's neighbors include artsy 180 Strand, bougie deli Corner Shop, double Michelin-starred Ikoyi, and Frieze's bakery and restaurant Toklas. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of the St Clement hotel, a new property from hospitality kingpin Nick Jones. Before the hotel's official opening, penthouse parties were thrown for the Rolling Stones, and within three weeks of opening, Café Clement has seen a rotating door of A-listers ordering soufflé.

From the outside, the building presents a 'glum office block' appearance, but inside, a contemporary take on art-deco shimmers, putting the nearby Savoy to shame. Guests enter through the hotel's fragrant lobby, where the bespoke scent nods to the 'oranges and lemons' of the St Clement's nursery rhyme, and ascend a curvy green-carpeted staircase reminiscent of Studio 54's entrance. Inside, low-slung ceilings and frosted-glass partitions between beige leather booths evoke vintage Manhattan on a financial upswing, with oil lamps flickering on tables. The view overlooks the women's sculpture park on the roof terrace of Temple tube station, rather than the river.

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Menu and Cuisine

Danny Bohan, former River Cafe head chef, has hit the ground running with a menu of flair-packed French and Italian classics. Time Out's Leonie Cooper highlights several dishes: zucchini fritters described as light, minty, and stodge-free, with crispy edges and a veil of parmesan. A cheese soufflé, made with Montgomery cheddar, gruyere, and aged comte, is described as a 'molten volcano masquerading as a cheese souffle' that 'chuckles in the face of Mounjaro.' Though allegedly a starter, Cooper notes it could be ordered as a main and still leave one turning down lunch the following day.

A herby and fresh fish bourride serves as a restorative, lighter follow-up, featuring sea bass, gurnard, mussels, and various mullets mingling with silky, flash-cooked tomato. A dish of musky aioli is provided for smearing over giant croutons to dip into the stew, which Cooper says manages to be both light and decadent. For dessert, a scoop of creamy melon sorbet is recommended for those at capacity, while baked peach and plum with cold cream is described as the kind of school pudding served at Eton: sweet, sticky, and incredibly rich.

Pricing and Practical Details

Time Out notes a set menu for £28, featuring items like ouefs mayo and onglet on the reviewer's visit, which paired with an £8 glass of tap house wine makes for a relatively cheap visit. The drink menu includes martinis, decent wines by the glass, and bottles for big spenders. Staff in blazers glide across the red marble floor, while Peggy Lee and Wanda Jackson play on the sound system.

All this activity occurs before St Clement's official opening, which Time Out calls impressive and 'slightly mad.' The restaurant is recommended for its international and starry crowd, French and Italian favorites with lots of fresh shellfish, pasta, risottos, and a hearty casserole section. The address is 180 The Strand, St Clement, 12 Temple Place, London WC2R 2NF.

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