A Wind in the Willows Weekend: Stylish B&B in the Chilterns
Taking inspiration from Kenneth Grahame's beloved story The Wind in the Willows, a writer embarks on a serene getaway to South Oxfordshire, exploring the woods and riverside villages that once captivated the author. This journey offers a perfect blend of literary nostalgia and modern comfort, centered around a stylish B&B in the Chilterns.
Discovering the Wild Wood and Beyond
Upon arriving in South Oxfordshire, the writer strolls through a dense beech forest, reminiscent of Mole's adventures in the Wild Wood. The area, close to suburbia yet rich with natural pockets, shines on a spring day with daffodils lining muddy lanes. As dusk falls, the pull of a cozy retreat leads back to Bonni B&B in Hill Bottom, run by Koo and Denny Akers.
This B&B is an extension of Bonni Outbuildings, a cabin business launched during the pandemic. Featuring corrugated cabins in mint, moss, and terracotta hues, it serves as a try-before-you-buy experience for potential buyers while providing a luxurious base for weekend escapes. The apartment includes an open-plan kitchen, living room, shower room with underfloor heating, and a king-size bed under a round window.
Decorated in clotted cream, terracotta, and powder blue, with vintage touches like mirrors and tulips, the space exudes warmth. A highlight is the bottle green corrugated shower. Guests can pre-order a DIY breakfast, such as avocado on toast with smoked salmon and poached eggs, enjoyed while overlooking morning mist.
Cycling and Exploring the Riverside
With the mist lifting, the writer borrows a bike from the hosts for a gentle ride to Whitchurch-on-Thames. First stop is the Modern Artists Gallery, where gilded paintings by Alice Cescatti catch the light. Owner Peggy Brodie shares local history, including the farmhouse where the Womad festival originated.
Detouring east, the route passes alpaca fields and red kites soaring overhead, leading to Lin's Veg Shed for fresh, locally grown produce. In Whitchurch, cycling continues past the Greyhound pub and over the river into Pangbourne, home to Grahame's former residence. Though he didn't write The Wind in the Willows here, the town echoes Ratty's picnic-loving spirit with its cheese shop, bakery, and Italian deli.
Walking the Timeless Paths
Returning to Hill Bottom, the writer explores on foot, walking to Goring-on-Thames and Streatley along a riverside path through the Goring Gap. This topographical half-pipe, where the Thames cuts through chalk hills, joins the Ridgeway, Britain's oldest road. The landscape feels timeless, featuring brick and flint cottages, ancient churches, a mossy-roofed mill, and traditional pubs.
Hunger sets in near The Swan at Streatley, Pierreponts cafe, and the Goring Grocer, but a pre-ordered Riverford recipe-box meal awaits back at the B&B. A dish of romesco chickpeas with smoky paprika and cheese provides a satisfying end to the day, complemented by the promise of restorative calm through the round window.
Embracing the Chilterns' Charm
As the writer heads back, the Gatehampton Viaduct fades behind, and a tunnel-like holloway leads to Bonni B&B. Reflecting on Ratty's words about the Wide World beyond the Wild Wood, there's a sense of contentment in this bosky Chilterns corner. The trip, hosted by Bonni Outbuildings, offers doubles from £150 B&B, with breakfast kits at £15 per person and Riverford dinner boxes from £15 for two. Bike or paddleboard rentals are available for £30 a day, making it an ideal base for further adventures.
