If your festive plans include braving the seasonal ice rink at Somerset House in central London, consider a far more appealing alternative. Nestled within the historic building's New Wing, Poon's restaurant offers a warm, exquisite refuge from the chilly outdoor stampedes. Founded by Amy Poon, scion of the renowned Poon's restaurant dynasty, this new establishment provides a compelling reason to swap skates for chopsticks.
A Sanctuary of Design and Heritage
Stepping into Poon's is an immediate sensory delight. The space is enveloped in a dusky, muted salmon-pink hue—a twinkly, peach-toned environment described as womb-like and so calming that patrons are inspired to request the paint brand. This serene ambiance is no accident; Amy Poon enlisted a feng shui master to advise on the design. The decor features tasteful stencilled murals, embroidered benches, and beautifully crafted crockery, creating a romantic and elegant nook.
Watching over the room from a mantelpiece is a portrait of Bill Poon, Amy's father. A Hong Kong migrant, Bill was the UK's first Chinese chef-restaurateur to earn a Michelin star in the 1980s. While Amy spent years in marketing, PR, and the arts, she has now fully embraced her culinary heritage, evolving from a Clerkenwell pop-up in 2018 to this permanent, sophisticated destination at Somerset House.
Light, Delicate and Wholesome Cuisine
The cooking at Poon's distinguishes itself by being refreshingly light, delicate, and wholesome. It is a deliberate departure from heavier, cloying flavours. The meal can begin spectacularly with outstanding house pickles, celebrated for their sharp acidity, and a bowl of crudités served with a pungent, fermented tofu dip so good it alone justifies a reservation.
Other standout dishes include vegetarian potsticker dumplings with a perfect sear and a well-seasoned filling, and a subtle, balm-like combination of silken tofu with avocado and century egg. A large plate of white-cut poussin is poached flawlessly and served with a zingy spring onion, ginger, and chilli relish. For heartier appetites, the beef claypot rice arrives gloriously stodgy, topped with minced beef and a raw egg mixed in at the table.
While most dishes impress, one minor letdown was the duck salad, which felt somewhat drab and sparing on duck. Balance is swiftly restored by the dessert selection, 'Three Bites of Helen Goh', featuring a goji berry financier, a ginger chocolate truffle, and a slice of Asian pear.
Practical Details and Verdict
Poon's operates with both an à la carte menu and a £28 pre-theatre set menu, designed to satisfy without inducing drowsiness. The drink selection includes inventive cocktails like a Hong Kong milk punch. The restaurant is open Tuesdays to Saturdays for lunch and dinner.
Poon's at Somerset House is a confident, glamorous, and uniquely feminine addition to London's dining scene, much like its founder. It proves that the Poon family's culinary legacy is in very capable hands. With its sublime ambiance, expertly balanced food, and deep-rooted heritage, it is a destination worthy of any discerning food lover's itinerary.
