Jamie Oliver's Italian Restaurant Returns to London with a New Approach
When Jamie's Italian collapsed in 2019, burdened by £83 million in debt and resulting in 1,000 job losses, few anticipated that the celebrity chef would attempt a revival. However, seven years later, Jamie Oliver has launched a flagship location under the same name in Leicester Square, central London. The new venture features a smaller restaurant, a streamlined menu emphasizing affordable cuts of meat, and notably, no burgers. At its peak in 2008, the chain operated 47 UK restaurants; now, only this single location remains.
A Cautious but Optimistic Reopening
Ed Loftus, global director of Jamie Oliver Restaurants and a 20-year collaborator with Oliver, is tasked with ensuring the success of this reopening. Despite the inherent risks, Loftus expresses optimism after the first month of operation. He admits to initial nervousness, stating, 'Bringing something back that’s failed in the eyes of the public and the trade... there were definitely nerves and a few sleepless nights.' The new site is significantly smaller than previous iterations, which often occupied vast spaces that proved unsustainable for many towns and cities. Loftus emphasizes, 'We don’t want to make the same mistakes again.'
Streamlined Menu and Affordable Pricing
The old menu was extensive, featuring burgers, fillet steaks, salmon, and traditional pasta dishes. In contrast, the new offering is concise and affordable for central London. Starters start at £8, pizzas and pastas at £13, with the most expensive main being a £29 sirloin steak. Loftus explains, 'We aren’t giving people a huge amount of choice.' To keep costs down, the restaurant uses cheaper cuts of meat, such as pork shoulder in the bolognese, avoiding fillet steak and premium cuts. This strategy aims to provide 'very affordable food that is also high quality.'
Beef prices have surged globally due to shrinking cattle herds, rising feed and energy costs, and increased demand. Consequently, the menu is not beef-heavy. Loftus notes that a fillet steak would need to be priced at £40 to be viable. The bolognese uses a blend of rib and chuck beef mince, creating a rich, earthy ragu. The iconic Jamie's Italian Burger has been removed entirely. 'We don’t want to compete with everyone on mid-market; we want to be the best Italian option on the market,' Loftus asserts.
Navigating a Challenging Hospitality Landscape
The reopening comes at a difficult time for the hospitality industry, with higher business rates, rising inflation, and new taxes. Loftus acknowledges the risks but highlights Oliver's desire to bring positivity to the high street, which has been mired in gloom. Oliver was deeply involved in the opening, spending daily time in the kitchen and even taking calligraphy lessons to create a legible script for the handwritten menus, which were converted into a custom font. Loftus describes it as 'one of the most emotional projects he’s ever done, being given a second chance.'
Oliver's favorite dishes include the spaghetti nero—squid ink pasta with tomatoes and seafood—and the plank of meat and cheese, featuring speck. The menu emphasizes authenticity, with no cream in the carbonara, which is prepared in classic Roman style with egg yolks, guanciale, pecorino, and fresh pasta made on-site twice daily.
Future Concerns and Calls for Government Support
Despite careful planning, Loftus remains cautious about the future amid rising inflation and perceived government ambivalence toward hospitality. He advocates for a VAT reduction for restaurants and bars, noting that Germany has single-digit VAT and Ireland has provided relief. 'The sector wants to pay people more, but it would be good if the government could acknowledge that VAT is so high at 20%,' he says. Loftus warns that without changes, prices will continue to rise, potentially limiting diners' ability to eat out.
