Fez Travel Guide: Essential Dos and Don'ts for Your Next Moroccan Adventure
Published March 30, 2026. For travelers with a type A personality, meticulous planning often defines a holiday, yet even the most detailed itineraries can lead to regrets and unforgettable memories. Recently, I returned from Fez, Morocco's oldest city, founded in 808AD, where vibrant tiled mosaics adorn the streets and locals proudly welcome visitors. This historic hub, once a capital for about 800 years, attracted creatives and scholars, and is home to the world's first university, built in 859AD by Fatima al-Fihri. While Fez offers a one-of-a-kind experience, my trip revealed key insights for a smoother visit. Here are the things I would do—and definitely avoid—on a return journey.
Do Explore the Medina Thoroughly
Fez is divided into three areas: Fez el-Bali (the Medina), Fez el-Jdid (the 'new' Fez with the Jewish Quarter), and Ville Nouvelle (the modern French-built district). The Medina, a UNESCO-listed labyrinth of 9,000 streets packed into an area equivalent to two Hyde Parks, is the city's vibrant heart. Here, colorful ceramics, shoes, and rugs spill from shops, while the aroma of strong Moroccan coffee fills the air—I recommend trying it at Lagali. Market stalls overflow with local produce like figs, olives, and fresh flat bread from communal ovens. With no traffic except for occasional donkeys, the pedestrianized streets buzz with chaotic energy. To navigate efficiently and avoid getting lost, book a walking tour. I joined the Fes: Museum, Al Attarine Madrasa & Tannery and Medina Tour via Get Your Guide, a bargain at £10 per person for 3.5 hours. Led by an expert, it covered sites such as the Nejjarine Fountain, Chouara Tannery, and Bou Inania Madrasa, plus lunch at Palais Mnebhi, a 20th-century palace where the Treaty of Fez was signed and Madonna dined last year. For a more relaxed option, visit Fez Cafe, a plant-filled terrace serving local cuisine.
Do Take a Cooking Class for Authentic Flavors
The highlight of my trip was a cooking class at Dar Sunrise in the Medina, hosted by Jessica and Mohamed. Jessica, originally from Hong Kong, met Mohamed while on holiday in Morocco a decade ago, and they now live there with their family. The class began with chef Yassin asking our preferences while we sampled Moroccan biscuits, including the must-try ghriba peanut shortbread. We then visited the market with Mohamed to buy ingredients, followed by hands-on cooking in the kitchen. Yassin and his sister guided us through chopping, seasoning, and sautéing, all while Moroccan music played and tagines simmered. An impromptu dance break with garagab (iron castanets) added to the fun. The feast included vegetable tagine, tagine kafta, lamb with fried eggplant, and a standout giant pastilla—a savory-sweet pie with chicken, spices, and almonds. Hygiene was professional, but to avoid food poisoning, steer clear of raw fruits, vegetables, ice, and undercooked eggs. Book the Fes Souk Tour & Traditional Home Cooking Class for £49 per person on Get Your Guide.
Do Visit in Spring for Ideal Weather
I visited in early February hoping for winter sun, but Fez experienced unprecedented rainfall, described as the worst in 40 years—a trend climate experts predict may continue. The city isn't built for wet or cold weather, with many activities outdoors and homes designed for cooling. My riad staff diligently dried tiled floors, but heating was scarce; my hotel bed had two electric blankets. Even with a heavy coat, I felt cold throughout. For a more comfortable trip, aim for spring when average temperatures reach a balmy 25°C.
Don't Exchange Currency Before Departure
Eager to shop in the souks, I exchanged money in the UK for Moroccan dirhams (MAD), a closed currency with a limit of 2,000 MAD (about £160) abroad. I bought around £80 worth, but when I didn't spend it all, selling it back was a nightmare, netting only £30. Next time, I'll exchange cash at the airport for a better rate, like savvy travelers do.
Be Prepared for a Conservative Atmosphere
Fez is more conservative than other Moroccan cities. Alcohol is legal but limited to upscale hotels and Ville Nouvelle, and social mixing between men and women is less common. In the Medina, I noticed men chatting in groups but few women. I didn't experience cat-calling, likely due to modest dress and being with a male guide, but others report harassment. Consider your comfort level with these cultural norms before booking.
Don't Limit Yourself to the City
Fez can be overstimulating, so plan day trips. Popular options include Meknes, a laid-back alternative with a Medina and Bab Mansour gate, often combined with Volubilis, a UNESCO-listed Roman archaeological site. Chefchaouen, the 'Blue City' in the Rif Mountains, is another draw, though it's a four-hour drive each way. Its blue-painted streets, a tradition started by Jewish refugees post-WWII, attract tourists for wandering and hiking to nearby Akchour waterfalls.
For travel logistics, Ryanair offers flights from London Stansted to Fez from £140 return. Accommodation ranges from Riad El Kadi/La Maison Bleue at £200 per night to Hotel Sahrai's luxury at £278 per night. Plan ahead to make the most of your Fez adventure.
