Discover Ezcaray: Spain's Hidden Gem with £25 Flights

Spain currently faces a significant tourism dilemma, with visitor numbers reaching unprecedented heights despite widespread local protests against overcrowding. Throughout 2025, residents in popular destinations like Barcelona and Palma de Mallorca took to the streets, displaying placards with poignant messages such as 'your Airbnb used to be my home'. While demonstrators clarified that holidaymakers themselves are not the enemy—rather the broader industry—some British travellers have heeded the anti-tourist sentiment.

According to Jet2 CEO Steve Heapy, many UK tourists are now opting for alternatives like Egypt and Morocco over Spain. Nevertheless, international arrival figures and spending hit record highs in 2025, with 96.8 million visitors contributing over €134 billion (£116 billion) to the economy—a 6.8% increase from the previous year. This surge has prompted discerning travellers to seek out lesser-known destinations, and the village of Ezcaray emerges as a perfect choice for a quiet, authentically Spanish escape.

Why Ezcaray Stands Out

Recently added to UN Tourism's list of the world's best rural destinations, Ezcaray in La Rioja has been praised for its sustainable approach to tourism. Secretary-General Zurab Pololikashvili highlighted its commitment to 'shared prosperity, inclusive growth and territorial cohesion'. Nestled in the lush Oja Valley at the foothills of the Sierra de la Demanda mountains, Ezcaray offers an ideal base for exploring northern Spain's picturesque peaks. Despite its off-the-beaten-track charm, it is just a 90-minute drive from Bilbao airport, which provides direct UK flights for as little as £25 return.

How to Get There and Where to Stay

Flights from the UK to Bilbao are available from £25 return via airlines such as British Airways, Iberia, Vueling Airlines, easyJet, and Wizz Air, with a journey time of approximately two hours. From Bilbao, hiring a car for the 90-minute trip to Ezcaray is recommended, as although bus options exist (with a change in Haro), they can take around double the time. Accommodation options in Ezcaray cater to various budgets:

Hotel Echaurren Relais & Châteaux: from £156.93 a night
Palacio Azcárate Hotel: from £82.82 a night
Apartamentos Turísticos Rincones del Vino: from £71.92 a night
Apartamentos la Demanda: from £57.54 a night

Best Time to Visit and Activities

The cheapest month to fly to Bilbao is typically February, but the ideal time to visit Ezcaray depends on your interests. For lush landscapes, temperatures of 15-25°C, and fewer crowds, plan your trip from May to early June. If food and wine are your focus, September or October—shortly after the Rioja grape harvest—is perfect. Winter attracts skiers to the nearby Valdezcaray ski resort, while high summer offers 30°C climes, outdoor dining, local festivals, and vibrant café culture, with August being the most popular month for Spanish holidaymakers.

Nature enthusiasts will find plenty to do, as Ezcaray sits at the base of San Lorenzo mountain, La Rioja's highest peak at 7,451ft. Activities include:

Hiking through forested valleys
Cycling scenic routes like the Vía Verde del Oja
Climbing for spectacular views and wildlife spotting
Trout fishing and exploring hidden waterfalls in warmer months

For a more relaxing break, wander Ezcaray's quaint cobbled streets, visit arcaded squares and traditional buildings such as Santa María la Mayor, and browse artisan shops. The village's cafés and plazas, often hosting festivals, markets, and live music, offer a glimpse into its enduring traditions and strong community spirit.

Local Food and Drink

Food is central to Ezcaray's appeal, with the village regarded as one of La Rioja's standout culinary destinations. The region is world-famous for Rioja wines, with tastings and pairing menus available in local restaurants and vineyards. The gastronomy reflects its rural setting, featuring hearty mountain dishes like slow-cooked meats, stews, mushrooms, and seasonal vegetables. Must-try delicacies include:

Patatas a la Riojana: potatoes cooked with chorizo, caramelised onions, garlic, and peppers
Torrijas a la Riojana: Spanish-style French toast with a cinnamon-coated crust and custardy interior

At bars and casual dining spots, sample pintxos (small snacks served with drinks) and dishes such as lamb chops grilled over grapevine shoots, piquillo peppers stuffed with cod or minced meat, and white beans with clams or chorizo. For a special treat, Ezcaray boasts four Michelin-recognised restaurants, including El Portal de Echaurren, which holds two stars and offers conceptual cooking with unique twists on traditional ingredients like game and offal.