Bret McKenzie's Insider Guide to Wellington: A Liveable, Creative Capital
Bret McKenzie, the acclaimed comedian and musician from Flight of the Conchords, has spent nearly his entire life in Wellington, New Zealand, with only a brief stint in Los Angeles. He passionately describes the city as small and incredibly liveable, a stark contrast to the sprawling urban landscapes of LA. The hills surrounding the harbour are dotted with beautiful wooden homes offering stunning water views, creating a picturesque setting that enhances daily life.
Wellington's compact size allows residents to accomplish multiple activities in a single day, often leaving just 10 minutes before an appointment thanks to its pedestrian and ebike-friendly infrastructure. This efficiency fosters a dynamic lifestyle where spontaneity thrives. However, the city is famously windy, earning its title as the world's windiest city. McKenzie humorously notes that what Wellington considers normal wind would be a national emergency elsewhere. He believes these southerly blasts, cold and fresh, contribute to a creatively buzzy atmosphere, making Wellington a vibrant and inspiring environment.
Food and Drink: A Culinary Journey
Wellington holds a pivotal role in New Zealand's coffee culture, having introduced quality coffee to the nation decades ago. For breakfast, McKenzie recommends Prefab Cafe, a favourite among touring musicians like his friend Drew Erickson, who calls it the best breakfast in the world. In Berhampore, Gramercy Bakery is a must-visit for its amazing sourdough, pastries, and coffee, often drawing long queues that McKenzie himself joins, comparing its offerings to those in France and Italy.
Newtown's Morteza Kebab & Bakery, a newer Syrian spot, has elevated kebabs with its fresh-baked flatbread. For fine dining, Rita in Aro Valley offers a set menu in a 100-year-old workers cottage, blending fancy yet unstuffy vibes with intimate seating for only 30 guests. When it comes to drinks, The Ram stands out for its lively atmosphere and a giant tray of tiramisu served dessert-style. Just a 20-minute drive away, Lower Hutt's House of Good Fortune in Petone roasts fair trade beans in a charming wooden building adorned with old circus art, offering cakes, pies, and vegan options. Soon, the Te Ara Tupua scenic coastal pathway will connect Wellington and Lower Hutt, enabling cycling or walking trips between the two.
Nature and Outdoor Adventures
For river swimming, Kaitoke regional park in greater Wellington is top-rated, featuring deep swimming holes surrounded by bush and a connection to Lord of the Rings filming sites. A day trip to Kapiti Island bird sanctuary allows visitors to see rare birds like weka in a predator-free environment, though caution is advised to protect lunches from theft. On calm days, renting a kayak from Fergs Kayaks provides a fun and easy way to explore the harbour with beautiful hill views.
McKenzie, having grown up near the Wellington botanic gardens, shares a secret: after dark, visitors can enter via the Glen entrance with a torch to spot glow worms by turning off lights and staying quiet. For a magical sunset swim, Princess Bay beach on the Cook Strait offers cold but golden, sparkly waters with distant views of the South Island's Kaikoura Range.
Nightlife and Cultural Inspiration
Wellington's nightlife is rich with options. The Wairarapa dark sky reserve, about an hour's drive away, provides stellar stargazing without light pollution, near towns like Martinborough and Greytown. The city's artisanal beer scene is prominent, with Garage Project's Aro Valley tap room offering countless beers and snacks. Hawthorn Lounge, McKenzie's brother's cocktail bar, features cozy fireplaces and vintage jazz playlists, open until 3am from Tuesday to Saturday.
Bar Next Door, adjacent to popular restaurant Margot's, is a tiny, cute spot seating only 16, while Rogue & Vagabond hosts casual gigs where patrons enjoy beers and burgers on the lawn. For cultural events, Loemis is an underground mid-winter arts festival in June, and Newtown festival in March resembles a mini Notting Hill carnival. Paul Melser's pottery studio near the dark sky reserve offers unique bowls and plates in a forest setting, close to Tararua Forest Park for walks and picnics.
Neighbourhoods and Accommodation
Newtown is celebrated for its great cafes, bars, and independent shops without franchises. Cuba Street, the original art neighbourhood, remains the city's spine, historically designated for a motorway that never materialized, leading to cheap studios and vibrant spaces. McKenzie and Jemaine Clement started Flight of the Conchords gigs at Indigo, now San Fran, on Cuba Street. Though more gentrified today, it still boasts Slow Boat record shop, cafes, bars, and Duck Island ice-cream shop.
Paekākāriki, a 40-minute drive north, is a cool arty community with a beautiful beach, bike tracks, and local eateries, accessible by a scenic train ride. For accommodation, Paekākāriki holiday park offers an old-school Kiwi vibe from NZ$85, Ohtel provides retro boutique stays on the harbour edge from NZ$151, Naumi on Cuba Street features an awesome bar from NZ$238, and The Intrepid Hotel near Rogue & Vagabond is a cool boutique option from NZ$237.
Bret McKenzie's guide highlights Wellington as a dynamic, liveable city where creativity flourishes amidst natural beauty and a thriving cultural scene.
