What began as a questionable meat-based sludge in 1865 has transformed into a multi-billion dollar industry, with British consumers now paying up to £11 for Michelin-starred protein shakes. The protein revolution has taken an unexpected turn into luxury territory, with high-end fitness studios and exclusive clubs offering premium shakes that resemble works of art more than traditional supplements.
The Michelin-Starred Shake Experience
Imagine sipping a protein shake while Doja Cat plays in the background, watching as your £11 beverage is meticulously prepared with the precision of fine dining. This is the reality at Hermosa, where Michelin-starred chef Miller Prada has created a protein shake that bears little resemblance to the chalky concoctions of old.
The creation process involves vanilla protein powder blended with guanabana fruit flesh and almond milk, topped with saffron foam and blue spirulina. The resulting drink swirls with white, blue and yellow hues, earning comparisons to Vincent van Gogh's Starry Night painting. Erika Tamayo, Hermosa's founder, explains they've designed a specific drinking method to maximise the experience: "Place the straw midway for an ice-cream taste, then push it down fully for the mood-enhancing saffron hit."
This isn't an isolated phenomenon. Across London, establishments are embracing the luxury protein trend. Elevate in central London sells an £8.90 cacao shake promising to "support mood", while Soho House offers members £9 protein smoothies with cocktail-inspired names like "The Berlin" and "The Shoreditch".
From Humble Beginnings to Global Phenomenon
The protein shake's journey began far from today's Instagram-worthy creations. Food historian Hannah Cutting-Jones from the University of Oregon reveals that the first protein product dates back to 1865, when German scientist Justus von Liebig invented "Extract of Meat" - essentially melted-down beef hides and carcasses.
"To call it a protein shake would be very generous," Cutting-Jones notes, though it represented the first consumer product marketed for its protein content. This evolved into solid cubes that became familiar as Oxo stock cubes.
The protein industry found its footing among bodybuilders in the late 1890s with Plasmon powder, endorsed by bodybuilder Eugen Sandow. However, the real transformation came after World War II, when food technology advances normalised getting nutrients from powders.
The 1950s saw the first modern-style protein shake with Bob Hoffman's Super Hi-Protein shakes, which achieved over $1 million in sales by 1960. The 1970s marked a crucial turning point as protein became associated with weight loss through diets like Atkins and the all-liquid Last Chance diet.
The Modern Protein Boom
Today's protein market has exploded beyond recognition. According to market research firm Research and Markets, the global protein powder market is valued at $24.8 billion. A recent YouGov survey found that 25% of UK adults regularly drink protein shakes, rising to 37% among 25-34 year olds.
The demand has become so intense that there's now a shortage of whey, the liquid byproduct of cheese-making used in most protein powders, causing prices to soar dramatically.
Social media has accelerated the trend, with fitness influencers promoting specific brands. MyProtein, started in 2004 with a £500 overdraft, now values at least £400 million and runs an ambassador programme offering influencers up to 8% commission on sales.
Nutritional Reality Check
But how much protein do we actually need? Dr Linia Patel, a nutritionist at Pure Sports Medicine, explains that while UK government recommendations suggest 55g daily for men and 45g for women, active individuals might need 1.2g per kilogram of body weight.
"Food first should be our priority," Patel emphasises, noting that whole foods contain nutrients that supplements can't replicate. However, protein powders can serve as useful tools when used appropriately. She recommends unflavoured options to avoid excessive sweeteners and suggests adding ingredients like Greek yoghurt or nut butters to create balanced meal replacements.
The protein craze has expanded beyond shakes to include approximately 1,200 products making protein claims on UK supermarket shelves, from cereals to pancakes. Dr Ada Garcia from the University of Glasgow cautions consumers to scrutinise these claims carefully, as terms like "protein boost" aren't regulated like "high protein" labels, which require 20% of energy value from protein.
When Protein Becomes Problematic
The obsession shows no signs of slowing, with a Grocer survey finding 77% of UK residents seeking to increase protein intake. However, Cutting-Jones warns that this has led to dangerous trends like "dry-scooping" - consuming raw powder without liquid - which health experts say can cause choking or infection.
"We shouldn't replace all the other facets of what food is by counting our every calorie and macronutrient intake," Cutting-Jones advises. "We're not robots - food is about being human."
As the protein industry continues its meteoric rise, balancing nutritional benefits against marketing hype remains crucial for consumers navigating this transformed landscape.
