On 5 July 1976, during a historic heatwave that saw all-time temperature records tumble, a walker traversed the Lake District from Pooley Bridge to the coast, climbing every summit along the way. Profusely perspiring, the writer sought cooling breezes at a modest height, recalling the words of the late General Bruce, leader of early Everest expeditions. Bruce had declared that the ideal state—which he never quite achieved—was when drops of perspiration from the tip of his nose united into a continuous stream. On this scorching day, the writer attained that nirvana.
A red-hot rhapsody in blue
The ascent of Sergeant Man from Langdale, ordinarily a modest expedition, became Herculean under the relentless sun. The writer considered a bathe in Stickle Tarn but found its shores crowded with tents and picnickers. Deciding that his costume-less state was better suited to a more secluded mountain pool, he eventually discovered one behind Tarn Crag. There, lying immersed in a shady beck with the sound of tumbling waters in his ears, he reached what he concluded was the ideal state. The summit of Sergeant Man had been reached earlier, offering a refreshing breeze but a disappointing view spoiled by heat haze. The writer reflected that summit views are far finer in spring or winter.
Escaping the heat in the fells
The diary entry captures a moment of perfect relief from the 1976 drought, which saw the United Kingdom experience one of its driest summers on record. The writer's journey across the district highlights the challenges and rewards of walking in extreme heat, as well as the simple pleasure of finding a cool, shadowed spot. The beck provided a natural sanctuary, and the thought of a cool inn less than half an hour away added to the contentment.
