Maria Grazia Chiuri made a powerful statement with her first haute couture show for Fendi, held at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea in Rome. The designer described Italy's reluctance to recognize fashion as a cultural art form as both a cultural and political problem.
Fashion as Art: A Cultural Challenge
Chiuri bookended her catwalk event with two fashion exhibitions in Rome. One revived Karl Lagerfeld's early designs for Fendi from 1985, originally shown briefly, while another at a different location will display Fendi's haute couture collections since 2015. She noted that Italy lacks institutions like London's Victoria and Albert Museum or New York's Costume Institute, which regularly host major fashion exhibitions.
Reflecting on the 1985 exhibition, Chiuri said, "I remember seeing it. It changed so much for me, but it was highly criticised." She emphasized the need for Italy to integrate fashion into its cultural institutions.
Rome: The Heart of the Show
Rome holds deep personal significance for Chiuri, as her birthplace and a city she returned to on weekends while working in Paris. It is also where the five Fendi sisters transformed their parents' fur and leather boutique into a global luxury brand in the 1940s. Paola Fendi, now 95, said moving to Milan might have been better for business, but Rome is "our great love, a city with a story on every street corner."
Silhouette and Inspiration
Chiuri's couture debut featured a free-flowing silhouette inspired by kimono shapes and draping techniques, contrasting sharply with the hourglass "New Look" silhouette she worked with at Dior. "Completely different from the other couture house where I worked," she said. Key pieces included a full-length ivory caped coat with silk embroidery, black lace in solemn and sheer layers, and trailing ecclesiastical sleeves with wide satin cuffs.
Chiuri described the Roman influence on power dressing, noting, "I love a cape – probably because in Rome, we have the Vatican." The designs balanced grandeur suitable for both the Eternal City and red-carpet events.
Upcycled Fur and Brand Growth
Fur appeared on the catwalk but was upcycled from archive pelts and garments. "Fur is durable, and I think we should use it up," Chiuri said. Fendi's fur heritage, once glamorous, now poses an image challenge as Chiuri aims to grow the brand, which is smaller than LVMH stablemate Dior. At Dior, where she served as first female creative director from 2016 to 2025, revenues nearly quadrupled from €2.2 billion in 2017 to €9 billion in 2024.
