Grace Dent visits Auguste, a new restaurant in London's E8 postcode, and finds a culinary gem that combines inventive British cuisine with a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
A Warm Welcome in Hackney
Nestled in the heart of Hackney, Auguste is the latest venture from chef-patron Tom Auguste, who previously made a name for himself at several acclaimed London kitchens. The restaurant occupies a former pub, now transformed into a bright, airy space with exposed brickwork, wooden floors, and an open kitchen that allows diners to watch the chefs at work.
The menu changes regularly, reflecting the seasons and the availability of local produce. On the night of Dent's visit, the offerings included a starter of smoked eel with pickled rhubarb and horseradish cream, followed by a main of roast duck with cherries and chicory. The flavors were bold and well-balanced, with the smokiness of the eel complemented by the sharpness of the rhubarb, and the duck cooked to perfection.
Inventive Yet Approachable
Auguste's cooking is inventive without being pretentious. The dishes are presented simply, allowing the quality of the ingredients to shine. A standout was the dessert: a rhubarb and custard tart with a crisp pastry shell and a silky filling that was not overly sweet. The wine list is carefully curated, with options from small producers that pair well with the food.
The service is attentive and friendly, with staff who are knowledgeable about the menu and happy to make recommendations. The atmosphere is buzzy but not loud, making it suitable for both intimate dinners and group gatherings.
Conclusion
Auguste is a welcome addition to the London dining scene, offering a menu that is both creative and comforting. With its focus on seasonal ingredients and skilled execution, it is sure to become a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Grace Dent gives it a rating of 8 out of 10, praising its consistency and charm.
