Country Diary: The Many Faces of Wassailing in Somerset
In the orchards and gardens of Somerset, a centuries-old tradition comes alive each winter as communities gather to wassail their apple trees. This movable pagan feast, celebrated in the weeks following Christmas, sees people banging pots, swilling cider, hanging toast in branches, and shouting "wassail!" to awaken the trees and ensure a bountiful harvest.
Wiveliscombe's Sweet and Charming Celebration
The wassail in Wiveliscombe presents a delightful, family-friendly affair that starts and finishes early, creating a sweet and charming atmosphere. Organised by Brendon Orchards, a small juicing cooperative that intriguingly owns no orchard of its own, this pleasingly makeshift event sees participants gently pouring juice at the base of trees while singing traditional wassailing songs.
Here, the racket serves to awaken the slumbering spirit of the orchard, imagined as a capering crone complete with spiderweb parasol and green velvet cape. Children participate enthusiastically in this gentle version of the tradition that maintains its pagan roots while being accessible to all ages.
Wellington's Rowdy and Raucous Ritual
Just a few miles away, Wellington's wassail takes on a completely different character. Centred around the Swain's Lane orchard and spilling into the nearby pub, this celebration becomes a rowdy, adult-oriented affair featuring Morris dancing, a colourful dragon, and the unforgettable local character known as Mr Double Danger the 2nd.
Rather than gently pouring juice, Wellington wassailers take mouthfuls of cider and spit them toward the trees in a more vigorous libation. The cacophony here serves not just to awaken but to scare away the mawlscrawls – those mischievous sprites believed capable of blighting the next year's precious crop.
Sheppy's Organised Commercial Wassail
Adding another dimension to Somerset's wassailing tapestry, Sheppy's – one of the county's largest cider producers – hosts a highly organised, ticketed affair. This commercial interpretation of the tradition stands in stark contrast to both the makeshift charm of Wiveliscombe and the raucous spontaneity of Wellington, demonstrating how ancient customs adapt to modern contexts.
Shared Intentions Across Different Traditions
Despite their contrasting styles, all these wassailing celebrations share the same fundamental intentions: to thank the apple trees for the previous year's harvest – with 2025 proving an absolute bumper crop – and to fire up the sap for the coming season. The practice of singing not about the trees but directly to them creates a delightful confirmation of our interconnected relationship with nature.
This relationship involves all the give and take that meaningful connections entail: offering toast for the lucky-omen robin, providing libation for the roots, anticipating fruits for juicing, and bestowing the gift of song upon the trees themselves. The wassail represents a living tradition that continues to evolve while maintaining its pagan roots and agricultural purpose.
As Old Twelfth Night approaches each year, these diverse wassailing celebrations across Somerset demonstrate that there truly is no single correct way to honour the apple trees. Whether through gentle children's songs or rowdy adult revelry, the spirit of wassailing continues to thrive, connecting communities to their agricultural heritage and to the natural cycles that sustain them.
