Heddon Street in Mayfair has undergone a remarkable transformation over the past decade. Once a relatively quiet alley, it now buzzes with energy, packed with vibrant drinking and dining spots. The latest addition to this thriving scene is DakaDaka, a restaurant whose name translates from Georgian slang as 'big mood' – a fitting description for its lively ambiance and bold flavours.
A Convivial Atmosphere with Fire at Its Heart
DakaDaka is not a place for those seeking a hushed, intimate dining experience. On a recent soggy Tuesday evening, the restaurant was absolutely heaving, with nearly every one of its 100 covers occupied. The large, boxy dining room is dominated by a ginormous, smoke-belching open kitchen, where flames dance and chefs work with focused intensity. Blaring music fills the air, and communal tables encourage a sense of shared enjoyment. While it's certainly boisterous, conversation remains possible – this is conviviality, not chaos.
The Crossroads Cuisine of Georgia
Georgian cuisine occupies a unique culinary space, positioned at the crossroads of the Middle East and Eastern Europe. As chef Mitz Vora demonstrates at DakaDaka, this means a delightful fusion where you might find dumplings alongside pomegranate, or rich meats paired with sour, tangy accompaniments. The approach here is neither slavishly nostalgic nor focused on reinvention; instead, it's about serving traditional food smartly, with a particular emphasis on flame-cooked dishes.
From Snacks to Skewers: A Flavour Journey
The meal begins with what the menu terms 'snacks', which set a remarkably high standard. Nakhvasta – corn and millet crisps – are served with generous, cheesy walnut and coriander dips that are utterly moreish. The nigvziani badrijani features smoky slices of aubergine concealing a delightful crunch of walnuts and bursts of pomegranate.
For those familiar with Georgian cuisine, khinkali are essential – those elaborate, hand-twisted dumplings filled with steaming stew. DakaDaka's version, particularly the shitake mushroom variant, delivers superb, rich, soupy goodness encased in firm dough. The mtsvadi pork skewer is another highlight, with sweet, heavy meat creating a blissful contrast against sour pickled walnut.
Shilaplavi presents a softer, thicker rice-based dish that offers stodgy comfort, though its traditional association with mourning adds an intriguing layer. The octopus addition in this version provides subtle texture rather than dramatic change. Throughout, richness defines the experience, balanced by clever acidic notes.
Georgian Wine: An Essential Exploration
No visit to a Georgian restaurant would be complete without exploring the country's wine tradition. Georgia produces rich, sour reds that remain relatively unknown in Western Europe, representing something of an acquired taste. DakaDaka's cellar is dizzyingly well-stocked, with over 100 Georgian wines to choose from. For the truly adventurous, even dessert offers a vinous twist with red wine ice cream featuring a pleasingly sophisticated sour cherries flavour.
Practical Considerations and Final Thoughts
While DakaDaka delivers excellent food and vibrant atmosphere, practical considerations exist. On colder evenings, diners seated near the entrance might find themselves repeatedly closing the door against chills – staff are attentive but cannot abandon other duties every time someone enters. The sparkling Borjomi water, bottled in Georgia since 1890, offers a markedly saltier alternative to Western mineral waters and feels like an authentic choice.
DakaDaka represents enthusiastic, confident dining rather than fine dining or blingy extravagance. It successfully captures the spirit of Georgian hospitality and cuisine, making it a welcome addition to Mayfair's increasingly diverse culinary landscape. For those willing to embrace its big mood, it offers a memorable journey through flavours that bridge continents and traditions.
