On a cold December morning in 1975, a walker set out to explore one of the south-east coast's last great open spaces: the newly designated Seven Sisters countryside park in Sussex. The journey, recorded in a personal country diary, captures a timeless snapshot of this iconic landscape, from the meandering River Cuckmere to the towering white cliffs.
A Circuitous Route Over the Downs
The exploration began inland, rising over the rolling downs to the site of the deserted church at Exceat. There, the grass-covered outline and Norman apse still spoke of a much older history. With the area lacking the formal protection of a national park, the newly established countryside park offered a vital consolation—a preserved stretch of natural beauty along a heavily developed coastline.
From the heights, the view opened up to reveal one of England's most famous river vistas: the intricate meanders of the Cuckmere winding their way to the sea. The scene was alive with wildlife, including a flock of fifty swans, composed of both resident mutes and visiting Bewick's swans wintering from colder climes. Further down in Foxhole Bottom, the pastoral calm was underscored by two men waiting patiently with ferrets for rabbits amidst the sheep flocks.
The Call of the Salt Sea
Drawn onward by the desire for the sight and sound of the ocean, the walker hurried over springy turf towards the coast. The path led through salt marsh before reaching the shingle beach at Cuckmere Haven. The ultimate destination was a minor sanctuary: a cave nestled under the awe-inspiring white cliffs.
Looking up, the chalk face rose like a sheer wall, an impressive 300 feet high. It appeared so clean and vertical it could have been cut by a giant blade. The sun's glint on rows of embedded flints created a dramatic picture in stark black and white. At the base, freshly fallen boulders of chalk were already being shaped by the relentless sea into smooth, cannonball-like forms.
A Fleeting Taste of the Wild
The running tide soon dictated a retreat from the cave. Yet, the brief visit was enough to savour a powerful taste of the wild. The diary entry concludes with a note of gratitude for this protected span of landscape, a haven of natural drama and tranquillity. This 1975 account underscores the enduring value of the Seven Sisters and Cuckmere Haven, landscapes that continue to offer solace and breathtaking beauty to visitors today, nearly five decades later.
