A prominent British baker has ignited a fierce backlash in Mexico after making disparaging comments about the country's bread, labelling some staples as "ugly" and claiming Mexico lacks a substantial bread culture.
The Controversial Comments
Richard Hart, who launched the Green Rhino bakery in Mexico City in June, made the remarks during an April appearance on the PopFoodie Radio podcast. The comments gained widespread attention this month after being highlighted by food bloggers and commentators.
Hart, who has previously worked with celebrity chefs Gordon Ramsay and Noma's René Redzepi, criticised the quality of Mexican wheat, describing it as "not good" and "completely highly processed, full of additives". He specifically targeted the common bolillo roll, used for traditional sandwiches called tortas, calling them "white ugly rolls that are pretty cheap and industrially made".
A Wave of National Defensiveness
The criticism struck a deep nerve in a nation where food is revered as a national treasure. Pastry chef Tania Medina responded sharply on TikTok, accusing Hart of wanting to "be the Christopher Columbus of bread". She emphasised the perceived ingratitude, stating it was unfair "to stomp on where you're going to open, and even less so if it's not your country and that country is welcoming you with so much affection".
Rodrigo Sierra, whose Instagram reaction video went viral, explained the cultural significance. "The bolillo is a popular bread, a bread that has served most Mexicans," he said, defending its role as an affordable, practical everyday staple. He criticised Hart's perspective as "very poor", noting it ignored the economic reality of many Mexicans who cannot afford expensive artisanal loaves.
Apology and Broader Context
Facing the growing furore, Hart issued a public apology on Monday via the Green Rhino Instagram page. "Since I moved to Mexico, I fell in love with the people and this city," he wrote. "However, my words did not reflect that respect – in this country I am a guest and I forgot to act like one."
The incident occurs against a tense backdrop in Mexico City, where an influx of foreign residents has been blamed for driving up local rents, leading to protests. Hart's comments were seen by some as emblematic of a dismissive attitude towards local culture.
Sierra was keen to educate, pointing out Mexico's rich and diverse baking heritage that extends far beyond the bolillo. He noted the existence of over 600 kinds of bread, including the special pan de muerto prepared for the Day of the Dead celebrations. "Bread is embedded in our culture … it's an important part of a Mexican's ritual," Sierra asserted, calling Hart's view "very Eurocentric".
Hart now joins a list of British chefs who have faced criticism for meddling with or insulting national cuisines, following in the footsteps of Jamie Oliver's chorizo paella, Mary Berry's white wine bolognese, and Nigella Lawson's creamy carbonara.
