Skye Gyngell, pioneering slow food chef, dies aged 62
Skye Gyngell, slow food pioneer, dies at 62

The culinary world is mourning the loss of Skye Gyngell, the pioneering Australian chef and restaurateur who passed away in London on 22 November at age 62. Gyngell was celebrated as an early celebrity advocate for using local and seasonal ingredients, leaving behind an extraordinary legacy that influenced chefs and food producers worldwide.

Building a culinary empire from scratch

Gyngell's most notable achievement was creating Petersham Nurseries Cafe in Richmond, south-west London, which she built from the ground up in 2004. The garden restaurant went on to achieve what many in the industry consider the ultimate accolade - a Michelin star. Her vision transformed a simple nursery cafe into one of London's most celebrated dining destinations.

Her family and friends released a heartfelt statement: "We are deeply saddened to share news of Skye Gyngell's passing on 22 November in London, surrounded by her family and loved ones. Skye was a culinary visionary who influenced generations of chefs and growers globally to think about food and its connection to the land."

Tributes from culinary giants

The news prompted an outpouring of grief and admiration from fellow chefs across the industry. Jeremy Lee, chef at London's Quo Varis, praised Gyngell's "extraordinary life and career... how this lovely lass lit up the world."

Jamie Oliver expressed his sorrow, writing: "Terrible sad news. She was an amazing woman and incredible cook and kindhearted. She will be very, very, very missed. Thank you for all you did to inspire young cooks."

A remarkable culinary journey

Born in Sydney on 6 September 1963, Gyngell came from a prominent family. Her father, Bruce Gyngell, made history as the first person to appear on Australian television in 1956 and later became managing director of TV-am. Her mother, Ann Barr, was a well-known interior designer.

Gyngell's culinary path began unexpectedly while studying law at Sydney University, where she took a dishwashing job at a delicatessen. This sparked a passion that led her to Paris, where she trained under Anne Willan at the prestigious École de Cuisine La Varenne before working at the two Michelin-starred restaurant Dodin-Bouffant.

After moving to London, she honed her skills working under Anton Mosimann at the Dorchester and later at the French House in Soho under Fergus and Margot Henderson.

Championing the slow food movement

Gyngell became a leading voice for the slow food movement, a grassroots initiative founded in Italy during the 1980s that advocates for preserving traditional cooking methods while promoting a "good, clean and fair" approach to eating. Her commitment to sustainable, locally sourced ingredients set new standards in the industry.

Her career included teaching, private catering for high-profile clients including Nigella Lawson, Charles Saatchi, Madonna and Guy Ritchie, and serving as food editor for Vogue magazine.

Beyond Petersham Nurseries Cafe, Gyngell opened Spring at Somerset House in London and ran restaurants Marle and Hearth at Heckfield Place in Hampshire. Marle was awarded a green Michelin star in 2022 and has retained the honour every year since.

Final battle and legacy

Last year, Gyngell was diagnosed with Merkel cell carcinoma, a rare and aggressive form of skin cancer. The treatment temporarily affected her cherished senses of taste and smell, which she described as profoundly challenging for a chef.

She was married to Thomas Gore from 1989 until their divorce in 1996, and is survived by their daughter, Holly, and another daughter, Evie, from her relationship with James Henderson.

Skye Gyngell's influence on contemporary British dining remains immeasurable, having inspired countless chefs to consider the provenance of ingredients and the importance of sustainable cooking practices. Her legacy continues through the restaurants she built and the culinary philosophy she championed throughout her remarkable career.