The culinary world mourns the loss of Skye Gyngell, the groundbreaking Australian chef who passed away from Merkel cell carcinoma at age 62. Gyngell made history as the first Australian woman to receive a Michelin star and was celebrated for her pioneering approach to cooking that emphasised local ingredients and elegant simplicity.
A culinary pioneer emerges
Gyngell's rise to prominence began in earnest when she took over the kitchen at Petersham Nurseries Café in Richmond, southwest London, in 2004. What started as a temporary arrangement stretched into an eight-year tenure that would define her career and influence British dining culture.
Before her time at Petersham, Gyngell had already established herself as a sought-after private chef for high-profile clients including Nigella Lawson, Charles Saatchi, Madonna, and Guy Ritchie. She simultaneously served as food editor at Vogue magazine until 2003, shaping culinary trends from both the kitchen and the page.
The Petersham Nurseries phenomenon
Under Gyngell's leadership, Petersham Nurseries Café quickly became one of London's most celebrated dining destinations. The restaurant earned the Time Out award for best alfresco dining in 2005, followed by a Tatler award for most original restaurant the subsequent year.
In 2011, the culinary world took formal notice when Petersham Nurseries Café received a Michelin star. While Gyngell appreciated the recognition, she found the increased expectations challenging. The influx of customers drawn by the prestigious award ultimately contributed to her decision to leave the following year.
The Good Food Guide perfectly captured the restaurant's appeal in 2010, describing it as "a secret, horticulturally minded oasis with attitude" that captivated diners with its unique atmosphere and exceptional food.
From Sydney to London: An unconventional journey
Born in Sydney in 1963 to television executive Bruce Gyngell and interior decorator Ann Barr, Gyngell's early relationship with food was unconventional. Her family followed a macrobiotic diet that emphasised grains and restricted oils, leading the young Skye to secretly spend her pocket money on sweets.
After studying law at Sydney University, Gyngell discovered her culinary calling while washing dishes at a local deli. Inspired by Lebanese cook Layla Sorfie, she moved to Paris at 19 to train at Anne Willan's prestigious La Varenne cookery school.
Her professional development continued at Michelin-starred restaurant Dodin-Bouffant, where she absorbed classic French techniques before bringing her skills to London. After a brief stint at the Dorchester under Anton Mosimann, she found her true culinary home working with Fergus and Margot Henderson at the French House in Soho.
Beyond Petersham: Spring and Heckfield Place
Gyngell returned to the London dining scene in November 2014 with Spring restaurant at Somerset House. The elegant establishment, designed by her sister Briony, represented a departure from Petersham's rustic charm while maintaining her commitment to exquisite ingredients.
Her career reached another peak when she became culinary director of Heckfield Place in Hampshire. There she collaborated with farmer Jane Scotter to create a comprehensive farm operation that included rare produce, a working dairy, orchards, and flower gardens. This project represented the full realisation of her culinary philosophy.
Throughout her career, Gyngell championed charitable causes including StreetSmart and the Felix Project, demonstrating her commitment to social responsibility within the food industry.
Personal challenges and legacy
Despite her professional success, Gyngell faced personal struggles, including drug and alcohol addiction that began in her teenage years and continued for two decades until her father's death in 2000 provided the catalyst for change.
Though well-connected in media circles, she never pursued television fame, instead focusing on her restaurants and writing four respected cookery books that shared her culinary wisdom with home cooks.
Gyngell is survived by her daughters Holly and Evie, and siblings David and Briony. Her legacy endures in London's dining scene and in the approach of chefs she inspired with her commitment to quality ingredients, elegant simplicity, and flavour harmony.
