Sino Notting Hill: A Fresh Take on Ukrainian Culinary Heritage
In the heart of Notting Hill, a new restaurant named Sino is making waves with its innovative approach to Ukrainian cuisine. Founded by Polina Sychova and led by chef Eugene Korolev, this establishment cleverly subverts traditional expectations of Eastern European dining, offering a nostalgic yet thoroughly modern experience.
Beyond Nostalgia: A Culinary Metaphor
The name Sino, derived from the Ukrainian word for hay, serves as a central theme throughout the restaurant. This is not merely a decorative choice but a profound metaphor for home and heritage. Ukraine, as a major agrarian nation, finds its essence captured in the subtle, sweet, and slightly grassy flavour of hay, which infuses both food and drink here. Hanging from the ceiling of the minimalist dining room, the hay replaces folk kitsch with elegant simplicity, creating a rustic yet chic ambiance.
Chef Korolev, whose career spans across Europe, brings a dynamic perspective to the menu. Having opened his own restaurant in Dnipro just before the Russian invasion, he later served in the army before joining Sychova's venture. His cooking reflects a blend of deconstructed Ukrainian classics and European staples with a playful Ukrainian twist, avoiding clichés while honouring his roots.
Standout Dishes and Flavour Innovations
The menu at Sino showcases Korolev's culinary prowess, though some innovations may come across as slightly elaborate. For instance, the bread service features a wildflower butter honey, which, while rich and sweet, includes a detailed explanation that might feel grandstandy. Similarly, the black pudding croquette with adjika and apple jam is beautifully presented but primarily tastes of high-quality black pudding.
However, when Korolev's creativity hits the mark, the results are exceptional. The beef tartare with mushroom mousse and crispy Jerusalem artichoke reimagines the classic dish, adding creamy earthiness and crunch for a symphonic flavour profile. Other highlights include the cherry-glazed BBQ catfish, a vibrant potato and sorrel waffle, and a restrained honey cake served with cream. Notably, the chicken Kyiv is served in a dinkier, less greasy version, with its garlicky crunch complemented by hay-infused mash—a subtle nod to nostalgia.
Ambiance and Service
The restaurant's aesthetic combines rustic minimalism with playful touches, such as a feature wall of earthenware and unique crockery. Service is efficient and friendly, reflecting an Eastern European sensibility without being overly fussy. This setting enhances the dining experience, making it both comfortable and intriguing.
A Restaurant Beyond the Cause
While Ukraine's recent history might draw some diners for charitable reasons, Sino stands on its own merits as a culinary destination. It represents a creative young chef harnessing his skills to offer a literal taste of home, moving beyond any cause célèbre to focus on quality and innovation. For those unfamiliar with Ukrainian cuisine, the £80 five-course tasting menu provides an excellent introduction.
In summary, Sino Notting Hill is more than just a restaurant; it's a celebration of Ukrainian culture through modern, thoughtful cuisine. With its clever use of hay, inventive dishes, and warm service, it offers a unique dining experience that redefines what Ukrainian food can be in a contemporary context.
