From Persian Inspiration to a Modern Plant-Based Platter
An unexpected journey to Iran in the 1970s led Australian cheesemaker Richard Thomas to a culinary revelation that would eventually influence a modern plant-based recipe. After tasting fresh labneh with warm lavash, Thomas returned home and created marinated feta, now a staple in kitchens worldwide.
This versatile cheese, known for its ability to remain firm when crumbled or turn velvety when whipped, found a new purpose during the Covid-19 lockdowns. With cafes closed, producers supplied buckets of the cheese directly to grocers, leading to creative home cooking experiments.
Crafting the Creamy Papula Base
In a recipe from her book, Salad for Days, food columnist Alice Zaslavsky incorporates this 'fetta funk' into a creamy Balkan white bean dip known as papula. The dish was inspired by Olia Hercules and showcases how cheese can amplify flavour, creating a luxurious bed for roasted vegetables.
The papula is made by blending 400g of cooked butter beans with sherry vinegar, olive oil, and sea salt. Two-thirds of a jar of marinated feta (or 200g of soft Danish-style feta) is then added and blitzed until smooth. The addition of roasted garlic cloves, squeezed from their skins after cooking, provides a deep, buttery flavour.
Assembling the Vibrant Final Dish
The star topping is four to six medium red peppers, halved, de-seeded, and roasted at 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 for 35-40 minutes until blistered. The clever technique of tucking garlic cloves underneath the peppers as they roast infuses them with flavour and prevents the garlic from burning.
Once the peppers have steamed under a cover for 15 minutes, their skins are easily removed. The flesh is sliced into thin, silky slivers that glow a vibrant crimson.
To serve, the whipped papula is scooped onto a platter. The pepper strips are arranged on top, dressed with the tray juices, and garnished with parsley, the remaining feta, paprika, roasted almonds, and a final drizzle of olive oil. The dish is served with warm soft bread like lavash, pide, or pitta for scooping.
This plant-forward creation is packed with beany protein and is substantial enough for a decadent brunch, lunch, or light dinner, proving that vegetable-centric dishes can be both deeply satisfying and visually stunning.
