Rachel Roddy's Puntarelle, Radicchio, Celery, Apple, and Cheese Salad: A Crisp Tribute to a Veg Legend
This vibrant and flavourful salad recipe from Rachel Roddy serves as a heartfelt homage to the late vegetable specialist Charlie Hicks, celebrating a shared passion for the versatile Italian chicory known as puntarelle. With its crisp textures and punchy flavours, the dish encapsulates the essence of fresh produce and culinary expertise.
Remembering Charlie Hicks and the Legacy of Veg Talk
Many will recall Charlie Hicks from his prominent role on Veg Talk, a beloved weekly Radio 4 programme that aired from 1998 to 2005. The show originated after Sheila Dillon interviewed Charlie, a fourth-generation fruit and vegetable supplier at Covent Garden market, for an episode of The Food Programme. Impressed by his vast knowledge and infectious enthusiasm, Dillon discussed the idea with colleagues, leading to the creation of Veg Talk. Each episode featured Charlie's market report, a vegetable of the week segment, and contributions from notable studio guests such as Angela Hartnett and Alastair Little, alongside listener calls.
While the show had its detractors, including broadcaster Andy Kershaw, it garnered a dedicated following. Fans, including Rachel Roddy, tuned in for Charlie's practical and scholarly insights, honed over decades in the markets, cooking with his wife Anna, and engaging with growers. His sharp humour and warm voice made the programme a staple for food enthusiasts.
The Puntarelle Connection: From Rome to London
Rachel Roddy's connection to Charlie deepened through the late cooking teacher Carla Tomasi in Rome. In the 1980s, Charlie supplied produce to Carla's restaurant Frith's in Soho, which drew on her Italian heritage. He provided essential ingredients like bitter greens, blood oranges, and puntarelle, a key component of this salad.
Puntarelle, or cicoria di catalogna, is a chicory variety with dark, bitter outer leaves and pale green, succulent inner tubes. Roddy's first contact with Charlie involved discussing its preparation Roman-style: slicing the tubes into strips, curling them in cold water, and dressing with anchovy, garlic, olive oil, and lemon or vinegar. They also explored using the bitter outer leaves in salads, paired with sweet elements like apple or persimmon and cheese, inspiring this recipe.
Recipe: Puntarelle, Radicchio, Celery, Apple, and Cheese Salad
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 1 head puntarelle or frisée
- 1 small head radicchio
- 2 celery stalks
- 1 crisp red apple
- ½ lemon
- 100g cheese (e.g., pecorino, grana padano, asiago, manchego)
- 6 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp red-wine vinegar
- 2 tsp runny honey
- Salt
- 100g walnut halves
Method:
- Trim the puntarelle by removing the dark outer leaves, discarding any tough or damaged ones. Separate the pale inner tubes, cut off the tough ends, and slice into short lengths or on an angle.
- Break the radicchio into leaves, wash all greens, dry thoroughly, and rip larger leaves into manageable pieces.
- Remove strings from celery stalks and slice thinly on an angle. Quarter the apple, remove the core, and thinly slice the quarters, rubbing with lemon to prevent discolouration.
- Use a potato peeler to shave thin, uneven slices of cheese.
- In a large bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, honey, and a pinch of salt to create the dressing.
- Add the leaves to the bowl, toss well, then incorporate the celery, apple, and walnuts, tossing again.
- Add half the cheese, toss once more, then transfer the salad to a large platter or individual plates. Top with the remaining cheese and serve immediately.
This salad not only offers a delightful mix of bitter, sweet, and savoury notes but also stands as a fitting tribute to Charlie Hicks's enduring influence on the culinary world. Enjoy it as a fresh, vibrant dish that honours his legacy and the joy of seasonal produce.
