Poon's at Somerset House: A Demure Cantonese Revival in a London Landmark
The latest incarnation of a London Cantonese institution has arrived at Somerset House, bringing with it a storied history and an elegant, if somewhat restrained, dining experience. Poon's at Somerset House occupies a stunning, high-ceilinged antechamber in the west wing of the iconic building, adorned with hand-painted willows that weep down pastel pink walls, creating a visually striking backdrop for a meal steeped in culinary heritage.
A Legacy Reborn in Splendid Surroundings
Conceptually, Poon's has a lot to recommend it. This marks the first stand-alone restaurant from Amy Poon, daughter of founders William and Cecilia Poon, who retired in the mid-2000s. Amy has kept the family business alive through a thriving chilli-sauce brand and various pop-ups, and now she brings the Poon's name back to a permanent home. The elegant space is as long, skinny, and splendid as any 1990s-era supermodel, thoughtfully designed to honour the legacy while offering a contemporary setting.
The deep, storied lore of Poon's dates back to 1973, when the first Poon's Restaurant opened, helping to bring Cantonese food to the tatty streets south of Soho and playing a role in giving Chinatown its name. The flashier Poon's of Covent Garden followed in 1980, attracting celebrities like Frank Sinatra and Mick Jagger, and even earning a Michelin Star. This new iteration at Somerset House aims to pay tribute to that rich history while carving out its own identity.
The Food: Elegant but Occasionally Restrained
The food at Poon's isn't quite as ornate as the surroundings. Dishes like prawn toast, dubbed 'The hill that Amy didn’t die on' for reasons unexplained, look the part—chubby and deep-fried in sesame seeds—but lack significant flavour. Served without one of the famous Poon's dipping sauces, it feels somewhat nude. However, a bowl of slippery wontons comes with a helping of Poon's branded Chilli Vinegar Dressing, and cross-contaminating the prawn toast with this sauce can yield a more satisfying effect.
Most impressive is a claypot of jasmine rice topped with wind-dried meats, a classic dish that harks back to the original Chinatown restaurant of the 1970s. The pork is cooked to a sweet, jerky-like consistency, and the liver is so enticing that even offal-phobes might be tempted to lap it up. This dish has a bit more boldness compared to other mains, such as the poussin with spring onions and ginger—a delicately poached chicken with soft, velvety flesh that is perhaps a touch too demure for its own good.
Desserts and Drinks: Hits and Misses
For dessert, a pretty lump of lychee and lemon sorbet serves as an ideal palate cleanser, tasting how Lush products should taste—fragrant and refreshing without the soapy aftertaste. Less successful is 'Three bites of Helen Goh' (the menu does not explain who Helen Goh is), which features a stiff slice of naked, unripe mango, lacking in flavour and appeal.
The drink offerings are a highlight, with great cocktails and a hefty wine list featuring glasses starting at £7. The exceptional toasted rice old fashioned is particularly recommended, adding a sophisticated touch to the dining experience.
Final Verdict: A Fitting Tribute with Room to Grow
Poon's at Somerset House has a lot going for it—its historic legacy, stunning location, and thoughtful design. However, the food could benefit from letting loose a bit more, embracing the bold flavours that made the original Poon's famous. With a few tweaks, this demure Cantonese cookery in a central London landmark building could become a fitting tribute to the institution it seeks to honour.
The vibe: Demure Cantonese cookery in a central London landmark building.
The food: Wontons, wind-dried sausage, and delicate steamed meats.
The drink: Great cocktails and a hefty wine list with glasses starting at £7. Try the exceptional toasted rice old fashioned.
Time Out tip: Order the wind-dried meats, a classic Poon's dish that harks back to the original Chinatown restaurant of the 1970s.
