As the chill settles in and big coats emerge, our culinary desires shift towards comforting, earthy flavours. This seasonal transition calls for wines that can stand up to heartier dishes, and few regions deliver as perfectly as Piedmont in northwest Italy.
The Allure of Piedmont's Red Wines
While Piedmont produces diverse styles including the crisp Gavi di Gavi and sweet moscato d'Asti, it's the region's red wines that possess an irresistible charm for autumn evenings. The name Piedmont translates to 'at the foot of the mountain', referencing its position nestled against the Alps, which significantly influences its wine character.
Despite accounting for less than 5% of Italy's total wine production, Piedmont's offerings enjoy global renown. This limited availability combined with high demand means prices often start at a premium, but the experience justifies the investment for wine enthusiasts.
Piedmont's Celebrated Red Grapes
Nebbiolo stands as Piedmont's most famous red grape, frequently compared to Pinot Noir due to its challenging cultivation and disease susceptibility. Like its French counterpart, Nebbiolo often displays a light colour despite its robust character, with an expressive and complex aroma profile. Many detect distinctive rose petal notes that emerge vividly from the glass.
The grape's name derives from nebbia, Italian for fog, possibly referencing the mist that gathers in Piedmont's hills during winter. Nebbiolo comprises 100% of the celebrated Barolo and Barbaresco wines that have achieved international acclaim.
Barbera represents the most widely planted grape in Piedmont, with iconic examples originating around Asti and Alba. While capable of producing elegant, earthy wines worthy of ageing, Barbera typically plays second fiddle to Nebbiolo in reputation, making it more affordable while maintaining excellent quality.
The Dolcetto grape remains even more underappreciated despite offering comparable appeal to its more celebrated siblings. Typically consumed young due to lower acidity and alcohol content, Dolcetto wines aren't generally considered for long ageing, though exceptions exist. Their finely structured tannins make them exceptional food partners.
Perfect Food Pairings for Piedmont Reds
Liam Colucci of Raeburn Fine Wines, who brings both Italian heritage and expertise to his recommendations, suggests ideal culinary matches. 'Piemonte is blessed with perfect hazelnuts, truffles and mushrooms, and it's as if the local wine is made for such dishes,' he observes.
For Barolo, Colucci recommends agnolotti with guinea fowl filling, complemented by fresh ceps and a glossy reduced stock sauce. Barbera creates what he describes as an 'electric' pairing with vitello tonnato, where the wine's acidity mirrors the dish's sharpness.
Four Piedmont Reds to Explore This Season
M&S Araldica Barbera d'Asti (£9.50, Ocado, 14.5%): Oak ageing introduces spice elements that complement vibrant cherry notes. This wine originates from a cooperative in Asti working with 230 growers.
GD Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba (£16, The Wine Society, 12%): Blue fruit characteristics create a distinctive graphite coolness throughout.
Il Poeta Barolo (£22, Laithwaites, 14%): Represents exceptional value for Barolo, delivering perfumed and aromatic complexity.
Cantina del Nebbiolo Nebbiolo d'Alba (£14, Waitrose, 14.5%): Smoky, spicy and plummy notes make this 100% Nebbiolo from a winemaking cooperative ideal for autumn months.
As evenings grow darker and temperatures drop, these Piedmont reds offer the perfect companion for seasonal cooking and cosy moments indoors.
