No Forty Nine, the new all-day bakery, bistro and wine bar from the team behind Cinder, has opened in St John's Wood. With head chef Ella Williams at the helm, the restaurant aims to blend New York bistro style with Mediterranean flavors. However, while some dishes shine, others need refinement.
Location and Ambience
Located at 49-51 St John's Wood High Street, directly opposite a branch of The Ivy, No Forty Nine boasts a lovely outdoor patio perfect for people-watching. Inside, exposed bricks, brown leather banquettes, and pop art create a 'zany millennial industrial chic' vibe, complete with road signs, Lego figurines, and cartoonish cowboys. The atmosphere is airy and distinctly northwest London.
Standout Dishes
The menu features several highlights. The fat gamberi rossi are wonderfully juicy and sweet, drenched in an addictive garlic and chilli oil. A delicate coil of taglioni looks beautiful, with gossamer slices of fresh truffle atop glossy pasta in a surprisingly subtle parmesan cream sauce. The steak haché is tender with an excellent smoky char, though the peppercorn sauce is too salty and has formed a thin film.
Shortcomings
Some dishes miss the mark. The pastry for the crab choux bun is a little stale, and the collard greens are chewy. For dessert, the crack pie has a rock-hard base, and the Baby Guinness sundae features gritty coffee ice cream with a hardened drizzle of fudge sauce and crumbled Graham crackers, though the retro glacé cherry is a nice touch.
Drinks and Service
The drink menu includes a short selection of classic cocktails like negroni and martini, as well as accessible Old World wines. A refreshing blood orange negroni was available but is being phased out in favor of classics. Service is attentive, and the outdoor seating is popular during warm weather.
Verdict
With the credentials of its chef and owner, No Forty Nine has lots of potential but isn't quite there yet. With more finesse, it could keep up with its sibling Cinder, which was named 'Best Local Restaurant of the Year'. For now, it's a solid three-star experience, ideal for brunch on weekends when it serves eggs, sandos, and bloody marys from 9am to 2.30pm.
