KFC's Bánh Mì Experiment Faces Backlash
Fast food giant KFC has sparked controversy with its limited edition Zinger bánh mì, described by critics as the Dannii Minogue of chicken sandwiches - familiar by name but lacking authentic character. The multinational chain rolled out the Vietnamese-inspired sandwich across Australia in early November following a trial in Newcastle, with plans to withdraw the product in December.
What's Missing From KFC's Version?
Food critics and traditional bánh mì makers have identified several key differences that separate KFC's offering from the genuine article. The sandwich features a bread roll that fails to deliver the characteristic crunch, accompanied by cabbage, carrot and cucumber slaw, a whisper of coriander, fried chicken fillet, mayonnaise and a slightly spicy barbecue-style sauce. Notably absent are the traditional pâté, pickled daikon, and the customisation offered by authentic Vietnamese sandwich makers.
Jasmine Dinh, second-generation owner of Bánh Mì Bảy Ngộ in Bankstown, Sydney, expressed her concerns after trying the KFC version. "You can't put a sliver of coriander and then call it a bánh mì," she stated, though acknowledged that corporate interest in the sandwich reflects its growing mainstream popularity.
Cultural Significance Versus Corporate Exploitation
Dr Sukhmani Khorana, an associate professor at the University of New South Wales specialising in media and migration research, suggests consumers should be "a little bit suspicious" when multinational chains attempt to profit from migrant foods. She emphasises that these corporations prioritise industrial processes and mass production over cultural continuity and pride for migrant communities.
The traditional bánh mì carries deep cultural significance within Vietnamese communities, often served at important life events from birthdays to funerals. As one journalist noted, "I've eaten bánh mì at birthdays and picnics, at temples and cemeteries. The KFC bánh mì is for a limited time only. Vietnamese bánh mì is for life."
The Australian Bánh Mì Appreciation Phenomenon
Beyond the Vietnamese community, Australians have developed a strong appreciation for the sandwich, with the Vietnamese Banh Mi Appreciation Society on Facebook boasting 161,000 members compared to 94,000 in the Fatties Burgers Appreciation Society and 49,000 in the Australian Meat Pie Appreciation Society.
Prime Minister Anthony Albanese has been photographed with his favourite bánh mì from Marrickville Pork Roll, demonstrating the sandwich's cross-cultural appeal. Anna Duong, whose parents founded K&H Hot Bread Bakery in Brunswick, Melbourne in 1993, notes that Australians love bánh mì because it's fresh and fast, with the mark of a good version being one so crunchy "the bread crumbs end up on your pants".
The price comparison reveals another point of contention: while traditional shops like Bánh Mì Bảy Ngộ sell their most expensive roast pork bánh mì for $9.50, KFC's version costs $9.95 before optional bacon and cheese additions.
As second-generation owners like Jasmine Dinh and Emily Duong take over family businesses, they're navigating changing expectations around authenticity and price while maintaining the cultural heritage that makes the bánh mì so special to communities across Australia.
