Italy's agriculture minister has ignited a political row after discovering what he labels 'Italian sounding' pasta sauces being sold within the European parliament's own supermarket. Francesco Lollobrigida has demanded an immediate investigation into the products, which he claims misrepresent authentic Italian cuisine.
The Supermarket Scandal
During a visit to the EU parliament in Brussels, Minister Lollobrigida encountered jars of own-label pasta sauces that triggered his outrage. The minister, who is part of Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni's Brothers of Italy party, took particular issue with two products.
He identified a carbonara sauce made with 'Italiaanse pancetta' rather than the traditional guanciale cured meat essential to the classic Roman dish. Additionally, he objected to a tomato sauce containing 'oignons de Calabria' (onions from Calabria), suggesting an inappropriate geographical claim.
"Ignoring the pancetta in carbonara … all these products represent the worst of 'Italian sounding'," Lollobrigida declared on Facebook. "It is unacceptable to see them on the shelves of the European parliament supermarket. I have asked for an immediate investigation."
The Battle Against 'Italian Sounding'
This incident highlights Italy's long-standing campaign against the global market of 'Italian sounding' products. These are food items that create the impression of being made in Italy through their branding, packaging, or naming, despite originating elsewhere.
The controversial sauces are sold by the Belgian supermarket chain Delhaize under its own label and feature an Italian flag on their packaging. Under current EU regulations, food labelling can be considered misleading if it distorts the product's true country of origin.
Reports from Brussels indicate that while the sauces did not explicitly claim to be manufactured in Italy, they prominently highlighted the use of Italian ingredients. The Guardian has approached Delhaize for comment regarding the minister's allegations.
Economic Impact and Broader Context
This controversy emerges at a significant moment for Italy, which eagerly awaits UNESCO's decision in early December regarding its application to have Italian cuisine recognised on the intangible cultural heritage list.
Meanwhile, Italy's largest agribusiness association, Coldiretti, has revealed the staggering economic impact of food imitation. The organisation states that the "scandal of fake Italian products" costs the country approximately €120 billion (£106 billion) each year.
In a strongly worded statement, Coldiretti explained: "Paradoxically, the biggest counterfeiters of Italian excellence are industrialised countries. Due to the so-called 'Italian sounding' phenomenon, more than two out of three Italian agri-food products worldwide are fake, with no production or employment link to our country." The United States was identified as the primary offender in this global trade of imitation products.
The association also regularly campaigns against the use of mafia terminology to market various food and drink items internationally, from Cosa Nostra whiskey to Chilli Mafia hot sauces, arguing it damages Italy's image and cultural heritage.
