The Art of Perfect Risotto alla Milanese
Much like Italy's fashion capital itself, risotto alla Milanese represents the pinnacle of elegant simplicity combined with luxurious richness. This iconic dish, celebrated for its vibrant saffron hue, offers home cooks a chance to create restaurant-quality Italian cuisine. Food writer Felicity Cloake has perfected this classic recipe, guiding you through each step to achieve authentic Milanese flavours in your own kitchen.
Understanding the Key Ingredients
The star ingredient that gives risotto alla Milanese its distinctive golden colour and delicate flavour is saffron. This precious spice comes with good reason for its expense – it takes approximately 150 flowers to produce just one gram. Fortunately, you only need a single level teaspoon to transform an entire pan of risotto into something truly special.
Beyond saffron, the recipe calls for 350g of proper risotto rice – carnaroli, arborio or vialone nano varieties work best. The traditional preparation uses beef stock, though chicken or vegetable alternatives work beautifully for a lighter version. Parmesan or grana padano cheese provides the essential salty, umami finish that makes this dish so moreish.
Step-by-Step Cooking Method
Begin by finely chopping one onion until it's almost paste-like – the goal is for it to melt into the dish rather than remain as distinct chunks. Melt a generous tablespoon of butter in a frying pan over medium-low heat, then gently cook the onion until soft and golden without browning.
Increase the heat to medium-high and add your rice, stirring constantly until the grains become hot and begin turning translucent around their edges. Meanwhile, bring your chosen stock to a gentle simmer in a separate pan. When the rice is ready, pour in 75ml of dry white wine and let it bubble away until nearly evaporated.
The key to perfect risotto texture lies in adding hot stock gradually. Stir in one ladleful at a time, waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding the next. After about eight minutes of this process, your rice should be approaching al dente perfection. During this stage, crush most of your saffron threads in a mortar and steep them in a little hot stock to maximise flavour infusion.
Stir the saffron-infused liquid into the rice, then assess the consistency. Authentic risotto should be loose and creamy, similar to porridge rather than holding a firm shape. If needed, add more stock or water to achieve your preferred texture.
Finishing Touches and Serving Suggestions
Remove the risotto from heat and stir in the remaining butter along with 75g of finely grated parmesan or grana padano. Cover the pan and let it rest for two minutes before vigorously beating the mixture until it becomes beautifully creamy. Taste for seasoning – you might find it needs no additional salt given the cheese's saltiness.
While traditionally served alongside osso buco, Felicity Cloake recommends this saffron risotto as a magnificent standalone meal when paired with a bitter-leaf salad to cut through the richness. The contrast between the creamy, luxurious rice and sharp, fresh greens creates a perfectly balanced dish that celebrates Milanese culinary heritage.
For those planning ahead, you can partially cook the risotto, spread it on a baking tray to cool quickly, then refrigerate until needed. When ready to serve, simply return it to the pan with reheated stock and continue from where you left off.
