In the bustling Nørreport neighbourhood of Copenhagen, the author indulges in a pastry at Riviera bakery, setting the stage for a delicious exploration. This quest aims to uncover the finest Danish pastry in a city renowned for its bakery culture, balancing crisp textures, oozy centres, and sweet cinnamon flavours.
The Danish Pastry Paradox: Not Actually Danish
It might come as a surprise, but Danish pastries are not originally from Denmark. In Danish culture, they are known as wienerbrød, meaning Viennese bread, reflecting their origins in Vienna's laminated dough techniques. There is no single "Danish" pastry here; instead, a variety of types exist, each with its own name and character.
Understanding the Varieties
Key pastries include the spandauer, a round pastry with a custard centre; the tebirkes, featuring a marzipan-like filling and poppy seeds; the frøsnapper, a twisted pastry dusted with seeds; and the snegl, commonly called a cinnamon swirl in English. These pastries serve as an essential energy source for exploring Copenhagen's vibrant streets.
The Search Criteria: Focusing on the Snegl
For this investigation, the snegl was chosen as the benchmark, partly due to its widespread availability and personal preference. A high-quality snegl should have a crisp outer layer and a soft, squidgy middle, rich with cinnamon and sugar notes. This standard guided the tasting across both traditional and modern bakeries.
Traditional vs. Modern Bakeries
Copenhagen's bakery scene is evolving, with new outlets emerging as pastry chefs from high-end restaurants open their own shops. Traditional bakeries, marked by golden kringle signs, offer hygge and historic charm, while boutique-style spots boast better lighting and vibrant displays. This contrast highlights a story of modernisation and renewal in the city's food culture.
Bakery Reviews: From Historic to Hipster
Sankt Peders Bageri
Established in 1652, Sankt Peders Bageri is Copenhagen's oldest bakery, located on a cobbled Old Town street. Its classic cinnamon snegl is round and flat, topped with sweet icing. While it offers a crisp exterior and soft interior, its lack of height and overly sweet icing place it at a 5/10 score, priced at 30 kroner (£3.50).
Brød
In the vibrant Vesterbro district, Brød exudes hipster vibes with a modern setup. The baker recommended trying multiple pastries, including a snegl, spandauer, and tebirkes. The tall cinnamon swirl stood out for its deliciously squidgy middle, earning a 7.5/10 rating at 30 kroner.
Juno
Opened in 2017 by ex-Noma pastry chef Emil Glaser, Juno in Østerbro is consistently rated among the city's best. Their cardamom bun is beautifully plaited, dusted with sugar and cardamom, offering a sweet, chewy texture. Despite the risk of a sugar crash, its moreish quality scored it a 9/10 at 34 kroner.
Discount 365
To represent budget options, a snegl from supermarket Discount 365 was sampled. It was thin, flat, and cold, lacking a soft middle and cinnamon flavour, with a margarine-like aftertaste. At 12 kroner, it received a low 1/10, emphasising that quality often comes at a higher price.
Albatross & Venner
At Torvehallerne food hall, Albatross & Venner offered 10 pastry varieties, including savoury options. Their cinnamon snegl, made with coffee syrup, was hearty and soft but lacked definition between layers, scoring 6.5/10 at 35 kroner.
Lagkagehuset
As a popular chain, Lagkagehuset provides reliable pastries in a modern setting. Their direktørsnegl, a chocolate-topped cinnamon swirl, is messy with an oozy centre, appealing to sweet lovers. It earned an 8/10 at 27 kroner, despite some bakery snobs' criticisms.
Riviera
Run by Italian chef Chiara Barla near Nørreport, Riviera stands out with its chic minimalist interior and reputation for the world's best tebirkes. After extensive tasting, its pastries were deemed superior: the sticky, orange-glazed cinnamon snegl, the exquisite spandauer with lemony vanilla custard, and the tebirkes, a delightful hybrid. Priced at 35 kroner, it achieved a perfect 10/10.
Conclusion: A Sweet Victory
This pastry quest through Copenhagen reveals a rich tapestry of flavours and styles, from historic bakeries to modern innovations. While each spot offers unique charms, Riviera emerged as the clear winner, showcasing the pinnacle of Danish pastry craftsmanship. For food lovers visiting Denmark, exploring these bakeries provides a delicious insight into the city's culinary heart.
