Alta Review: Authentic Spanish Dining in Carnaby's Tourist Hub
On Wednesday 28 January 2026, the vibrant yet artificial atmosphere of Kingly Court in Carnaby presents a striking contrast to the serious culinary destination that is Alta restaurant. With its cheerful pink furniture and candy-striped awnings, Kingly Court embodies a somewhat Disneyfied version of food culture, seemingly designed by private equity firms to cater to tourists. These visitors often express disappointment that the once-iconic Swinging Sixties epicentre of Carnaby Street now primarily hosts mainstream retail chains like Benefit and Abercrombie & Fitch.
Contrasting Venues in Kingly Court
To fully immerse in the local spirit, I initially visited Disrepute, the basement cocktail bar with historical connections to the Profumo affair. Now transformed into a 1960s-themed establishment, it serves £18 cocktails with names like Manifesto and Femme Fatale to patrons seeking unique first-date locations. This venue perfectly encapsulates the expected Kingly Court experience.
Alta, however, stands in stark contrast. While searching for the restaurant, I passed numerous casual eateries including Pizza Pilgrims, Le Bab, and Island Poke, which made me question whether a highly recommended Spanish restaurant would truly reside among such company. Situated at the far end of the market, Alta appears almost embarrassed by its brightly coloured neighbours, featuring a facade painted in muted earthy browns and greys that makes it easy to overlook—as I discovered twice.
Atmosphere and Design
Inside, the theme continues with interiors crafted entirely from wood and stone. The roughly plastered walls resemble sheets of cracked rock, creating the illusion of dining in a charming country mesón rather than a multi-storey shopping complex. The most desirable tables overlook an open-plan kitchen positioned directly within the dining area, where chefs work silently without physical barriers separating them from guests. This layout creates a democratising effect, suggesting that anyone could be preparing the food on any given occasion.
Navarrese Cuisine Focus
Alta specialises in the cuisine of Navarra, a northern Spanish region that has exerted significant influence on global gastronomy over recent decades. Though not technically part of the Basque Country, the culinary distinctions remain subtle enough to escape most non-Spanish diners. Heading the kitchen is Botswana-born Rob Roy Cameron, who transitioned from fashion photography to working under renowned chefs including Michael Caines and Albert Adrià.
Menu Highlights and Dishes
The relatively concise menu at Alta features shareable dishes demonstrating genuine quality throughout. Standouts include neat rows of smoked Cheddar doughnuts served with hot honey, and indulgent strips of on-site cured cecina (air-dried smoked beef). While many dishes showcase simply prepared, well-sourced ingredients, Alta isn't afraid of culinary innovation.
The chicharron (fried pork rind) served with mojo rojo—a smoky red pepper sauce from the Canary Islands—represents the Platonic ideal of pork scratchings. This impossibly light canopy of fried fat, dusted with lime and perched on vivid-orange sauce, demonstrates kitchen mastery. Similarly, circular smashed potatoes arrive with bright green verde butter, proving that at Alta, colour resides primarily in the food rather than the decor.
Other memorable dishes include an exceptional bowl of crab rice with pomelo, where delicate crabmeat complements rich, bisque-like carbohydrates. The substantial 35-day aged sirloin, topped with smoked bone marrow chunks and cooked over open fire, provided excellent quality meat reminiscent of top Basque steakhouses. Overall, Alta evokes comparisons to a refined version of Smithfield's acclaimed Ibai restaurant.
Service and Beverages
The knowledgeable, appropriately friendly staff kept us generously supplied with well-chosen beverages. They recommended thoughtfully mixed cocktails incorporating patxaran (traditional Navarrese liqueur) and expertly paired a slightly funky riesling with sufficient character to complement the rich dishes.
Final Impressions
While Alta would feel perfectly at home in a Mayfair mews or beside a Spanish orchard, its Carnaby location provides Londoners with compelling reasons to brave tourist-heavy streets. This restaurant serves as a distinctive oasis within the capitalist theme park environment of modern Carnaby Street, offering authentic Spanish dining experiences amidst predominantly commercial surroundings.
