The Enduring Allure of Workwear in Modern Men's Fashion
What began as practical clothing for labourers and industrial workers has transformed into one of the most enduring trends in contemporary menswear. The humble garments once designed for manual work—characterised by generous cuts to allow freedom of movement—are now highly collectible items worn by men whose most strenuous activity might be operating a computer keyboard.
More Than Just Fabric: The Psychological Comfort of Workwear
According to writer Luke Turner, workwear provides a sense of mental comfort in the wobbly spread of middle age. In an era where toxic body expectations increasingly affect men as they age, workwear offers refuge through its durable canvases and twills that maintain their structure while softening over time. The boxy, roomy cuts are ideally suited for men in their late 40s who want to avoid both the restrictive fits of youth-oriented fashion and the sartorial surrender symbolised by the navy blue down gilet.
Tony Sylvester, author of An Informal Guide to Workwear, traces how these mass-produced garments given to industrial employees evolved into 21st-century menswear staples. His own introduction came in the late 1980s when west coast rappers like NWA popularised chore coats. Today, younger generations often discover workwear through fashion collaborations, such as Carhartt WIP's recent partnership with designer Nicholas Daley, which reinterpreted classic styles through the lens of Jamaican and Scottish heritage.
Beyond Appropriation: The Authentic Appeal of Functional Fashion
Some critics argue that workwear enthusiasts are soft-handed individuals appropriating working-class identity. A popular meme contrasts what these garments should have seen (factories, woodlands) with what they actually see (fancy coffee shops, craft breweries). Sylvester acknowledges this sense of stolen valour but points to historical precedent—French artists wore farmers' smocks while painting to suggest their creative labour had equal worth to physical work.
Turner defends his appreciation for pieces like his 1950s French SNCF railway jacket by emphasising practical considerations: natural fibres made by unionised labour long ago rather than synthetic materials produced under dubious conditions today. He even chose to get married in a blue linen suit from Norfolk's Old Town, based on labourers' clothing, because of its versatility for wedding, office, or pub.
The Practical Revolution: Durability Meets Style
As Turner acknowledges his changing body past 40—with an expanding waistline beyond 36 inches—workwear has become an acceptance of where my body is now. The clothing enables men to remain stylish while aging without worrying about waistlines or feeling pressured to dress younger than their age.
Ben Langworthy, manager at Labour and Wait, explains that the perception of workwear as cheap is mistaken. Historically, workers bought the best they could afford and repaired items for decades. This durability translates to modern value, with Turner's SNCF jacket outlasting a Barbour coat and his Royal Navy shop coat surviving baby vomit while holding emergency nappies in its large pockets.
With vintage workwear supplies limited and prices rising astronomically, new manufacturers are emerging to meet demand. Brands from Japan's Bryceland's to Nottingham's Universal Works are creating ranges based on old designs. Sylvester particularly praises Yarmouth Oilskins for maintaining unbroken heritage by still using natural fabrics in the same quayside factory occupied for decades.
Ultimately, workwear represents more than fashion—it's a quiet revolution that gives ordinary clothes from the late 19th to mid-20th century continued relevance in contemporary style, allowing men to age with both comfort and character.
