Almost three years after the passing of Dame Vivienne Westwood, a new publication is rekindling the flame of her extraordinary influence on global fashion. Vivienne Westwood & Jewellery, authored by fashion features director Alexander Fury, stands as the first comprehensive volume dedicated solely to this pivotal aspect of her creative output.
The book delves into the iconic accessories that came to define her signature aesthetic and, by extension, decades of UK fashion. It explores everything from safety pin earrings to chokers emblazoned with provocative slogans, pieces that embodied a rebellious spirit.
The Punk Pioneer's Enduring Legacy
Dame Vivienne Westwood died in December 2022 at the age of 81, leaving an immense void in the creative industries. Her impact stretched far beyond fashion, influencing music and film and successfully bringing punk and new-wave style into the mainstream.
Her fashion journey began explosively with the legendary King's Road boutique, SEX, in the 1970s. It was here that she crafted the iconic looks for her then-husband Malcolm McLaren's band, The Sex Pistols, catapulting her unconventional designs onto a worldwide stage.
Westwood presented her debut catwalk collection in 1981, and over the subsequent seasons, she firmly established her unique voice. The Westwood name became synonymous with historically-inspired garments reworked with an ironic twist, frequently utilising heritage fabrics such as Harris Tweed and tartan. She is even credited with inventing the 'mini-crini', a structured skirt that fused modern, daring lengths with a nod to historical fashion figures like Lacroix.
From the Catwalk to Pop Culture
Westwood's creations have generated some of the most memorable moments in recent pop culture history. One standout piece is the voluminous wedding gown worn by Sarah Jessica Parker's character, Carrie Bradshaw, in the Sex and the City movie. The dress, which Carrie famously dons after being left at the altar, was later sold on Net-a-Porter and sold out within mere hours.
In 2009, the late singer Amy Winehouse turned to Westwood for her extensively photographed court appearance, choosing a hyper-feminine yet demure suit that perfectly suited the designer's retro cuts. Another frequent collaborator, Helena Bonham Carter, often embodied the Westwood aesthetic, with designs that blended nymphlike taffeta with dramatic, period-drama ruffles and flattering corsetry.
An Irreverent Eye for Detail
Vivienne Westwood's meticulous attention to detail was unmatched, particularly during the mid-1990s. Collections from this era injected a sharp edge into traditional garments like cardigans and pussy bow blouses, using exposed nipples and Marie Antoinette hairstyles to parody the aristocracy.
Her influence extended powerfully into menswear. The western-inspired pieces from her mid-1980s Buffalo Collection remained staples for fashion trailblazers for decades. The large cowboy-style hat, initially designed for the rap group The World's Famous Supreme Team, saw a major resurgence when Pharrell Williams adopted it as his signature look in the 2000s.
Her irreverent spirit was legendary. After her death, presenter Fearne Cotton recalled the time Dame Vivienne wore a 'huge penis brooch' to Windsor Castle, a testament to the phallic symbols that regularly featured in her work.
Beyond the clothes, Vivienne Westwood will be remembered for her passionate environmental campaigning and her outspoken championing of sustainable manufacturing. Her work was often emblazoned with messages of social justice, a practice that lives on as part of her legacy, alongside her signature tailoring and the instantly recognisable Orb logo.
In the foreword to the new Thames and Hudson book, Westwood's creative director and husband, Andreas Kronthaler, perfectly captures the essence of the Orb, writing: 'The Orb logo itself is a jewel, symbolising the world with its past, its present, and its future.' He adds, 'It's very British and very Vivienne.'
